October 5, 2025 |
Inspired by France’s Camargue region – its wild nature, cowboy culture and white horses, Nadège Vanhée brought a freer, more bohemian feeling to the Hermès equestrian story. Describing the region as “a land of bohemians, gypsies – and freedom,” she said, “I wanted to bring this zest of freedom to equestrian style, which is often associated with the strict and the rational. I wanted to let go and give it a sense of spontaneity and fullness.”
Entitled Free Rein, the collection thrilled with equestrian detailing and the kind of confident, leggy sensuality that comes when you wear quilted leather shorts with a leather harness bra, threaded through with a fluttering silk scarf.
The designer took direct inspiration for the collection from a saddle in the Hermès archive made in the Carmargue style with a distinctive curving backrest. That curving detail was applied to coats and jackets, along with harness buckles and, lacing detail. Also inspired by the archive saddle, a few special pieces – a zip coat, bolero jacket and waistcoat – with the distinct patina of hand polished tan leather.
Leather colour is important to fans of this house who collect rare shades. Top of their wish list might be leather trousers, jackets and shorts in the new, intensely inky, blue noir shade, only available in ready to wear not yet in bags.
Quilting played a major role, with the designer bringing back a ’70s archive scarf print for ‘boutis’ quilted coats, and corset dresses worn over cycling shorts. A blue stripe print painted freehand by Jean-Louis Dumas, (the father of Pierre-Alexis the current artistic director of the house) was made into quilted coats. There’s a can-do attitude at Hermès and it gives energy to the runway. Vanhée’s women stride down the runway with total confidence and freedom of movement. These clothes are crafted beautifully but they’re built to last, to be enjoyed and to be lived in. That’s the beauty of Hermès.
Photography courtesy of Hermès.
