June 6, 2011 |
FROM THE VOLT (SUMMER 2010)
BORN: March 10, 1956; Vienna, Austria
NATIONALITY: Austrian
LABELS: Helmut Lang, founded in 1986. Left the label in 2005 to focus on art projects. In 2000, he ran his ads in National Geographic magazine – no other fashion brand had ever done that.
MISC: Collaborated with Louise Bourgeois in 2003 for limited edition pieces. Founded hl-art in 2005.
Legends in the fashion world come in many different forms. Helmut Lang is a case in point. His cerebral approach to designing clothes has created some of the most intellectually satisfying fashion of the past 20 years. And also, it should be added, some of the most esoteric and even intimidating. The Helmut Lang label is not for everyone. In fact, it is for the few who understand and appreciate what modernity is about.
Born in Vienna, it is not surprising that the influence of the radical design thinking of the Wiener Werkstätte is found in Lang’s unique solutions to the question: how should we dress in the modern world? His answer is evident: with sobriety and austerity, and a respect for the material and cut of clothes that are meant to be as functional, simple and satisfying as a modernist building or a a supersonic jet plane. There is little looking back in Lang’s approach to fashion design.
Anyone looking for colour and pattern in Lang’s work will not often find it. His palette is neutral – grey, black, white and a very occasional vivid Day-Glo colour flash – because all the emphasis of his garments is on the cut and the shape. And this alone makes them a special pleasure for a special sort of person, male or female. Almost entirely without embellishment and designed totally to flatter a body already toned and shaped, the Helmut Lang standard look is not for the plump, but can work with superb elegance and authority on the old, if slim. It is no surprise that his perfect cut and proportions appeal to people who have to think precisely rather than romantically, such as architects and engineers. But that does not mean that Lang’s clothes are unimaginative, soulless garments for simply covering the body. For his fans, they are romantic, even spiritual experiences. Certainly, they are the nearest fashion gets to a cohesive philosophy…
The Helmut Lang woman has a super-confident and independent sprit and a brain as pumped up intellectually as her gym-toned body is physically. Eschewing any decorative additions, her face is likely to be without make-up and her blonde hair perfectly cut.
WHAT WERE YOU DOING 10 YEARS AGO?
“Thinking of questions about a sustainable future on every level and how to place myself within that idea.”
HOW HAS YOUR APPROACH TO LIFE CHANGED OVER THE PAST 10 YEARS?
“My approach to life was always quite positive and it still is.”
IN WHAT WAYS ARE PERSONAL APPEARANCE AND LIFESTYLE IMPORTANT TO YOU?
“I appreciate the idea of privacy and personal space. Having my picture taken is still the same old drama.”
TEN IS CONSIDERED A TALISMANIC NUMBER. WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO YOU?
“I am born on the 10th of March, so there you go.”
FASHION IS CHANGING RAPIDLY. WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON HOW CLOTHES ARE PRESENTED IN ORDER TO REACH THE MAXIMUM AUDIENCE – AND HOW WILL THAT AUDIENCE DIFFER FROM THE TRADITIONAL AUDIENCE?
“As I am not directly involved in fashion anymore, I am rather fortunate to not drive myself crazy with that question. I do not think there will be a general formula for everybody, as it will vary on what the soul of each individual fashion house is. But one should be careful what to wish for.”
WHEN YOU WERE YOUNG – SAY, 10 OR A TEENAGER – WHAT WERE YOUR AMBITIONS?
“To survive and to grow up and to build a future for myself.”
OUTSIDE OF ART, WHAT ARE THE THINGS THAT MAKE YOU HAPPY OR SAD?
“Possibly everything.”
WHAT ARE THE TRUE INSPIRATIONS FOR YOU – IN YOUR LIFE AND IN YOUR ART?
“The unexpected.”
IF YOU COULD SPEND 10 DAYS TOTALLY AWAY FROM ART AND YOUR PRESENT LIFE, HOW WOULD YOU SPEND THEM?
“I do not feel the need to spend any time away from my present life, which I suppose is a good thing.”
IN 10 YEARS’ TIME, WHAT SORT OF LIFE DO YOU EXPECT TO BE LIVING?
“I do not like to dwell in the past and I am not interested in predicting what my future will be. Living in the moment leads for me to the next in the right way.”
by Colin McDowell
