In Hed Mayner’s arena, there’s no such thing as boring clothes. Affectionately termed as such by the designer himself, his SS24 collection revealed new design dimensions by reworking basics – a man’s suit, a chino, a cotton poplin shirt, a jumper – each instantly recognizable, but subverted; beautiful all the same. “There is something very strong in the way I work, towards things that often seem more dramatic, but this is about comfort. Normality,” Mayner said of the collection.
Perplexing orientations reigned, but it didn’t come off as abstract or weird – not even dramatic – it was simply an innovative interpretation of wardrobe classics. Vintage apparel was totally scrambled; turned inside out, upside down and back-to-front. A sheer tracksuit exposed its inner architecture while a long-sleeve stocking top had hidden pockets and foil bonded suiting felt futuristic. Two jackets were glued together and by the same token, the more mature sibling of two shirts – one larger than the other – were also stitched together. It’d be remiss not to mention that none of the pieces had any kind of lining either; instead, fraternal-twin-garments in supple British fabrics were sophisticatedly fused together.
Elsewhere, a pinstripe shirt and its coordinating trousers had a lurex thread running through them so that they were able to be pinched, cinched and bent into a wrinkly shape, carrying last season’s pressed and shrunken tailoring forward. There were bulbous knits and chunky, multi-pocket gilets too, so loaded they were like wearable pieces of luggage.
The collection was underscored by BB 5600 sneakers circa 1989 – part of the maison’s second collaboration with Reebok – as well as the cut of the sportswear giant’s iconic shell suit. There was also a partnership with Quoddy – a company that has been hand-crafting New England moccasins and boat shoes in Maine, USA, since 1909 – that injects a pressed-slipper and suede ankle boot into the offering.
Hed Mayner is bringing back boring clothes – with a touch of totally twisted stealth.
Photography by Francesc Ten.
