September 29, 2019 |
South – West. North – East. Whichever way you look, you will find elements of Haider Ackermann’s inspirations. Yet, when his clothes come down the catwalk, you can’t describe them any other way but “so Haider.” Twists, folds and tucks of the finest textiles out there form sculptural silhouettes which can never really be called menswear or womenswear. With the exception of few traditionally-cut gowns, Ackermann’s wardrobe is formed free of gender associations, leaving its wearer to decide how to create their own identity through these powerful garments. His SS20 collection provided more of that same skill set that finally seems to be getting the credit it deserves. The soft geometric volume was there, perhaps less exuberant than usual, but with the same signature lushness. The Colombian-born designer has been bringing something totally unique into the fashion conversations ever since he launched his label in 2003. Tailoring that’s more glamorous but somehow less formal than any other suits out there. Without a doubt, no designer has a visual language as clear and filtered as Haider Ackermann.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.
