December 4, 2025 |
Generation Gucci, Demna’s first pre-collection for the house, reads like a bridge between what he introduced for SS26 and what he’s preparing to unveil in February. Shot by the designer himself as an imagined show that never actually took place, the lookbook sets his vision in motion through controlled silhouettes, clean surfaces and a focused edit of archival cues.
Tailoring opens the collection, rendered in archival silk faille woven with an intentionally aged feel. The jackets are held shut by subtle clasps rather than buttons, giving the women’s suiting a streamlined front and a closer fit – something that echoes the body-conscious cuts he leaned into last season. Legging-fit trousers and a sharply drawn pencil skirt continue that direction, establishing a foundation that feels direct and purposeful.
An emphasis on construction comes through clearly: seamless denim with concealed pockets, silk travel suits engineered for ease and technical pieces inspired by wetsuits. Those references align with the lookbook’s attitude – sleek, elongated and edited down to essentials.
Outerwear becomes the collection’s most tactile chapter. Textured coats made from linked strips of shearling, feathers, goat hair and silk sit on sheer bases, lightening pieces that could otherwise skew heavy. The evening wardrobe carries the same sense of reduction: underwear-inspired garments paired with silk blousons, draped minis and minimal gowns in jersey and chiffon.
Demna’s research into ‘70s and ‘90s Gucci shows up in racer jackets with a web stripe, sliced Double G belt buckles, leather and suede looks and equestrian-print silk sets. Footwear stays streamlined, from Valigeria-influenced ballerinas to seamless-heel stilettos and ultra-light loafers dotted with spikes.
The bags – Lunetta Phone+, reimagined Jackie 1961 and the angular Dionysus – round out a collection that signals the early framework of Demna’s Gucci: archive-aware, material-focused and sharply controlled, pointing directly toward the future.
Photography by Demna.
