March 5, 2018 |
A chilling echo of wind, the piercing sound of violins. This was the opening to Clare Waight Keller’s Givenchy Autumn/ Winter 18 Night Noir. The sound of trains passing, and a very Stranger Things-esque beat all set the story. Berlin project inspired. They walked around a maze of curtained pillars, in seemingly constant suspense. This was a collection made for a movie, a thriller we think. Women in clouds of thick, snug printed fabulous faux furs belted at the waist over slip dresses glided by, grounded in those loose leather cowboy boots. Classic Clare. Forest green was the underlying dynamism, in shiny leather pants for both the women and men.
Wide shouldered sleeves felt so 1980s, men in their cardigans and women carrying their clutch bags like books had all the knowledge needed to see out this psychological thriller. Men’s knits zipped up high around the neck and glossy pants were pleated, walking in super flat laced up sneakers. Well, they’ve gotta be light on their feet, running away from the psychopath/ spy/ killer and all that. Evening drama was infused through glittering sequinned dresses and fringing that swished and swayed. Fine Chantilly lace was our lifesaver, in total lust as it slithered across and down the body. Huge bows were used as belts and on shoulders and those final dresses were short, pleated, ruffles bouncing and shining in stormy greys and champagne pinks. Givenchy glamour. Philip Glass’s ‘Sheba & Steven’ from Notes On a Scandal felt just right, the collection in a composition. Dark, fast paced and with a suspenseful unknowingness to it. Clare Waight Keller continues to mark her territory at Givenchy, clear moments of brilliance here.
Photograph’s by Jason Lloyd-Evans
