The backdrop to Giorgio Armani’s SS18 show, held this morning in the house’s stadium-style Teatro, was a screen, a screen of three simple words: Made In Armani. A statement that, apart from the obvious (that this was an Armani show, and these were Mr Armani’s clothes) seemed to speak of a suggestion that the designer was turning inwards, honing his own empire whilst the rest of fashion careers onwards. No bad thing – it’s not to say that Mr Armani is ignoring the world outside of his own, rather it’s this idea that he works at his own pace, season after season marching onwards in the pursuit of perfection – of creating a complete, rounded wardrobe for contemporary menfolk. It means his clothes, even as they stretch close to 100 looks, remain intentional. His vision is refreshingly single-minded. This season, the offering felt casual – Mr Armani imbuing his signature tailoring with an easy kind of luxury.
The colour palette was light – washed-out blues and greys, flashes of silver, camel. Trousers were generously proportioned, falling just short of the ankle, the tailoring itself either double-breasted, curving up the lapel, or simple, two-buttoned and lightweight. Occasionally there was something international about the cut – jackets that buttoned-up right to the collar felt almost Japanese (echoing his Emporio collection earlier this week), whilst preppy chambrays hinted to Mr Armani’s fascination with America. There was plenty outside of the aforementioned tailoring, too – some good knitwear, dropped at the shoulder or decorated with chevrons, languid polo-shirts with narrow collars, fluid trench coats, Harrington-style jackets that zipped up the front. It all made for solid, reassuring collection from the incontestable master of Italian menswear. Clothes that were easy, and eminently wearable – for Mr Armani himself, and his legions of devoted customers.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans
