What does Armani look like without Armani? Yesterday afternoon, Leo Dell’Orco unveiled the first Giorgio Armani collection to not be touched by the hands of Giorgio himself, who passed away last September. Dell’Orco, who is both Giorgio and Emporio Armani’s head of menswear, first met the late Italian fashion maestro in the early ‘70s and has spent over three decades as his closest confidant. Alongside Mr Armani’s niece, Silvana (head of all Armani womenswear), the pair are in charge of pushing the Armani forward into its next chap and.
In doing so, Dell’Orco doubled down on the codes that have shaped the brand to become one of this biggest fashion titans in the world. There was louche suiting, cut from silky velvets and handsome checks in muted shades but also emeralds and delightful aubergines. Suited and booted business attire became casual when worn beneath slouchy bombers in chocolate leathers. Outwear was a standout, whether it was aviator jackets or roomy, woollen overcoats that cocooned the wearer.
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Dell’Orco’s dedication to classic Armani-isms feels right. Across the board, designers are mining the relaxed tailoring that Mr Armani first introduced over 50 years ago. You just have to look at designers like Soshiotsuki, the standout at last week’s Pitti Uomo, who has spoken plenty around the late designer’s impact on his work, which reimagines Japanese salerymen suiting for a new generation. In Dell’Orco’s hands, Giorgio’s legacy lives on.
Photography courtesy of Giorgio Armani.
