ERL opened autumn/winter 2026 with a clear shift in tone. Eli Russell Linnetz took the brand’s sun-faded Californian ease and dropped it into a world of private schools, inherited wealth and tightly held codes of dress. From the first look, it was clear this was a collection built around structure: tweed blazers, wool overcoats and formal suiting set the agenda, reframed through ERL’s instinct for disruption and play.
The tailoring carried weight. Dense tweeds echoed the padded authority of 1980s sport coats, shown in grey alongside red and purple waffle plaids, often worn as full suits. Crisp Oxford shirts and striped poplins reinforced the sense of order, while colour – particularly collegiate red – cut sharply through the collection in tuxedo shirts, brick ties and nylon outerwear. Nylon-linen blazers and reversible trenches blurred the boundary between formal and functional, adding lightness and movement to classic shapes.
Knitwear anchored the collegiate mood. Argyle sweaters, cable-knit vests and V-necks in purple, red and beige were layered under blazers or worn more casually, offsetting the precision of tailoring. Crest cardigans and ERL University sweatshirts introduced familiar branding, styled with confidence rather than irony.
Denim jackets, leather varsity pieces and biker styles shifted the energy again, bringing momentum to the show. Eveningwear followed suit, with black cotton flight suits and velvet trousers replacing traditional tuxedos. Finished with statement loafers and fur-lined footwear, the collection presented ERL at its most focused – sharp, assured and fully in control of its expanding menswear vocabulary. Back to school season is in.
Photography courtesy of ERL.
