February 14, 2019 |
Princess Orietta Pogson Doria Pamphilj was a right fabulous lady. This Italian lady was last of the Doria-Pamphili-Landi noble Genoese family, roots of which date all the way back to 12th century. Her obituary, published in 2000 by The Telegraph names all the numerous estates she inherited, including their namesake palazzo which is with over 1000 rooms, one of three biggest ones in Rome. Imagine the parties… All in all, Princess Orietta was quite a fabulous lady with quite the exciting lifestyle. So exciting it inspired Erdem Moralioglu’s AW19 collection.
In 1960s, our protagonist went to London where she adopted two children with her partner, after which she came back to Rome. And that’s where we catch Princess Orietta today, within the painting-clad rooms of the National Portrait Gallery. Her wardrobe is infused by elements of Swinging London – flat pointy shoes, mini lengths, knitted cardis and little brocade hats matching her outfits – yet still trying to be appropriate for her royal title. Her Papal ancestry is reflected in the high drama and heavy volumes, strong violets and scarlet reds. Catholicism revisited, from the eye of someone yearning for a good party outfit.
But what did that mean for Erdem? The collection was one intricate dress after another, with an elaborate opera coat threw in here and there. These were clothes made for a peacocking starlet with a busy schedule. As the legendary Joan Collins sat front row (and directly in front of us), we couldn’t help but see her face in place of the models on the catwalk. Alexis Colby would definitely approve.
Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.
