March 4, 2024 |
“I want to create essential items that are unexpected,” says Duran Lantink, a current LVMH Prize semi-finalist, of his AW24 collection. The outing, which served as an ode to a wearable Apres-Ski fantasy, did this with ease.
Titled Duran-Ski, Lantink transported attendees to a wintery playground of post-ski slope champagne filled fun for the show. Reinterpreting the power shaping ’80s skiing style, the designer, who is based between Amsterdam and Paris, really homed in on wide, forward-facing shoulders as his focal point. This meant volumes were taken to new extremes within silhouettes shaped by micro padded hot pants, cropped puffer jackets and three-dimensional vests that looked like some kind of Fair-Isle-covered lifejacket and spiralled down the body with a large cut-out coming in just below the ribs. A lot of the collection was three-dimensional actually, with an array of shoulder-padded cardigans and stocky, fury, mini-gilets appearing throughout.
If you’re truly planning to use Lantink’s winter wear for sipping champers on the slopes, its imperative that you’re all wrapped up in layers and layers of cosy knits, of which there were plenty to choose from: think cut-out fingerless mittens, thigh-high socks and balaclavas in a palette of pale yellows, deep reds and jet black, as well as snug dresses, jumpers and full-body unitards.
In line with Lantink’s usual eco-conscious approach, his use of leather, sheepskin and velvet was sourced from a mixture of deadstock and vintage garments in addition to newly recycled lycra and wool to create cosy essentials. Lantink continually puts sustainability at the forefront of his work, while staying true to his experimental nature.
Each structural garment whispered to the fash pack that it was time to book a frosty holiday. Destination? Some lush resort in the Alps.
Photography courtesy of Duran Lantink.
