Military, Victorian and Samurai. What’ve they got in common? Well, in fashion terms, they all share a fierce bit of fabric manipulation, a love of sharp cuts, and a dose of embroidered pomp and circumstance. Oh, and they formed the crux of Dean and Dan Caten’s winter 2016 Dsquared2 show, our penultimate collection of Milan Fashion Week. It was about layered silhouettes, beads, sequins, chopped-up and spliced-apart ball gown bits abstracted, as if hacked away from a dress by a warrior. Imagine if Queen Victoria and Ryu from Mortal Kombat got into a barney over who had better hair, and there’s a good idea of the look we’re going for. It translates into emphatic, extravagant clothes – liveried jackets, gold buttons, and gorgeous jet embroideries across taffeta and velvet. Stuff definitely worth fighting for, and it’ll probably cost all the bounties of an empire.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans