September 28, 2023 |
Cult favourite Dries Van Noten has established itself over the years as one of the most hotly anticipated shows on the Paris Fashion Week calendar – and for good reason. Inside a dilapidated expanse, the Belgian-born designer served up an eclectic mix of contemporary office-wear, using a consistent strain of eccentric detailing to present an SS24 collection that flipped normcore on its head. Entitled Unfamiliar Familiar, it was exactly that.
Blazers were squarely shaped and coats were oversized, both with a healthy helping of pockets and buttons. Prints were popular, dancing from marble-like swirls to decisive checkerboard to remind onlookers that fanciful formality isn’t defunct. Thick stripes reminiscent of a school rugby kit added a collegiate flare with the occasional mesh dress and bra top giving the collection an overall feel of effortless cool. Pointed-toe heels were strapped over geometric, shin-high socks while muted yet colourful plimsoll trainers popped out throughout. Striped shirts were reworked into dresses and off-the-shoulder jumpers, reimagining the conventional into something more daring and forward thinking.
Boxy leather bags were occasional, but welcome, drawing together the accents of old school elevation. The beauty looks – under the direction of long-term collaborator Lucy Bridge – were also of note, with oiled feathers slicked onto eyelids or poking from locks of hair.
The stylings of an unmitigated individual and creative force, SS24 is stellar season for Van Noten.
Photography courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
