August 29, 2011 |
FROM THE VAULT (SUMMER 2011)
There’s a slimmer silhouette at Dolce for autumn. Jackets and trousers and brilliant pegs had a touch of the mod (first wave) about them. Take away Gandy in his silk boxers and the show was less about “I fuck well” and more “I’m available but firstly I insist on buying you a drink. And then I fuck well.” We do bang on about the skill of the designers when it comes to cut and understanding what men, straight and a “bit funny”, want, but repeatedly they send out clothes that work: short, nipped jackets that will probably be worn exactly as they suggest with smarter trousers (the jacket-jeans thing looks increasingly retired), a good MA-1-style bomber (the jacket that sort of happened but never did and now it’s your chance again), some solid knitwear, the red and black and grey and white thick stripes were best, and tees. Hero tee this season: Bryan Ferry in a mustard blazer. Wear this and they’ll come running, but insist on buying them a drink first.
by Richard Gray
Photograph by Jason Lloyd-Evans – www.lloyd-evans.com
