Craft To Couture: The Savoir Faire of Dior

from left: Mitzah scarf by DIOR; Book Tote bag by DIOR

We’ve spoken on several occasions since and each time the conversation has gone back to the importance of savoir faire – the combination of confidence and ability – and Chiuri’s purposeful way of using it. Radiating out from that Paris atelier are the specialist factories in Italy and Spain that produce the brand’s bags and shoes. Its catwalk jewellery, designed by Chiuri, is produced in Italy and Germany. In these ateliers, the knowledge of generations of specialist artisans is brought to the task of realising the designer’s ideas. The famed Lady Dior bag, for instance, is assembled by hand in Florence from 150 separate pieces. The lambskin version pictured on these pages goes through five major stages. After skin selection, cutting, assembly and final stitching, the last stage is euphemistically called ‘pampering’, where the bag is primped and perfected before being sent to stores.

from left: Dior Tribales earrings by DIOR; Lady Dior bag by DIOR

Further afield are the specialist international ateliers Chiuri has worked with on her globetrotting resort and pre-fall shows. The designer sees these travelling shows as an opportunity to forge new relationships, share ideas and create mutual benefits with craftspeople whose values are kindred with Paris couture.

“Craft is really a way to make bridges to communities. We can support each other. I think it’s a language too, one which we can use to communicate. This is possible in fashion, especially for Dior,” she told me in 2022. That year, Chiuri showed her resort collection in Seville and sought out local embroiderers and metalworkers who had previously only worked with churches on altar regalia and garments. “There are techniques I found that I have never seen in my life. This is exceptional. This is haute couture, and it was really an enrichment for me to work with them,” said the designer, who later revisited the Spanish artisans with members of her Paris atelier to further the collaboration.

from left: embroidered J’Adior slingback shoes by DIOR; Dior Chez Moi shirt and shorts by DIOR

Call it the couture equivalent of friends with benefits but Chiuri’s practice of international savoir faire diplomacy is a win-win. Dior deepens its craft repertoire, bringing different and more diverse emotions to its look, while at the same time using its power to uplift specialist artisans and local communities. Whether that’s embroiderers in Puglia, Mexican leatherworkers or African print makers, the designer finds the values of couture in far-flung places. “Couture means having the specific knowledge to create a unique piece with your hands. Where there are people with the skills to create something with their hands, beautiful things, you can find it,” she says.

Taken from 10 Magazine Issue 72 – DARE TO DREAM – out now! Order your copy here.

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from left: embroidered Saddle bag by DIOR; 30 Montaigne Bar Jacket by DIOR

from left: D-Joy ballet shoes by DIOR; embroidered jacket and trousers by DIOR