September 28, 2022 |
The axis between feminine power and fashion is a rich seam for Maria Grazia Chiuri whose feminism is reshaping the house of Dior. For SS23, her historic muse was Catherine de Medici, an Italian noblewoman who became the French Queen and rocked the court with her political savvy and ability set trends. The ultimate 16th century influencer, platform heels, the corset and Burano lace were all popularised by her. They may be centuries apart but the two women have plenty in common. Chiuri is also an Italian making waves at a Historic French institution and she’s started more than a few trends.
This season saw her introduce teacup crinoline skirts and a 21st century take on the corset which were not designed to constrict or distort. Adjusted with elastic straps, they were worn loosely over voluminous poet shirts and cargo pants. This was Baroque made modern.
Chiuri introduced a natty Map-of-Paris print for trench coats and parkas, which came from a design she found in the archive. Her virtuosity was also on display with stunning raffia embroidered pieces that put craft at the very core of this collection.
The breadth of the Dior world is awe inspiring. One catwalk can take you from denim downtime to dazzling red carpet moments. In-between are a myriad of ideas on how to dress now. Chiuri’s younger customers are telling her they want to show more flesh. For for them she proposed full, New Look skirts and shirt dresses tied with a drawstring at the waist. They came in in broaderie anglaise, or lace trimmed voile and were entirely slit open at the front to reveal matching French knickers. Ooh la la? Ooh La lovely.
Photography courtesy of Dior.
Photography by Morgan O’Donovan
