De Beers: Tantalising Talisman

When De Beers unveiled its Talisman collection in 2005, it upended expectations of what fine jewellery could be. For the first time, rough and polished diamonds shared the same stage, as uncut stones with their raw form, colour and texture were set side by side with their faceted counterparts.

Two decades on, the jeweller has once again broken the mould. To mark Talisman’s 20th anniversary, De Beers has launched a new suite of fine and high jewellery pieces that pair rough and polished diamonds exactly as the original codes intended, yet feel as fresh and daring as the day they first appeared.

“The Talisman collection is a perfect expression of our unique DNA,” says the De Beers Creative Studio. “It is inspired by the incredible journey of natural diamonds and captures the raw beauty of rough diamonds – their unique colours, organic shapes and textures – just as they are found in nature, alongside the brilliance of polished diamonds.”

Founded in 1888 at the height of southern Africa’s diamond rush, De Beers quickly established itself as one of the most influential industry forces. The brand’s history is closely tied to the origins of modern diamond mining, trading and grading. By the early 1940s, De Beers and the Gemological Institute of America were collaborating to introduce and popularise the now-universal 4Cs grading system: cut, colour, clarity and carat. A few years later, De Beers’ 1947 slogan “A diamond is forever”, created by copywriter Frances Gerty, became one of the most famous advertising lines in history. It was later named the greatest tagline of the 20th century by Ad Age.

from left: from top: Talisman Medal necklaces in 18k rose gold, 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold, rough, white and fancy colour diamonds, Talisman bangle in 18k white gold, rough and polished diamonds by DE BEERS; from left: Talisman Large Band rings in 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold, round brilliant and rose-cut polished diamonds and rough diamonds, Talisman Cocktail ring in 18k yellow gold, rough yellow diamonds and white micropavé diamonds by DE BEERS

De Beers Jewellers, now known as De Beers London, was established in 2001 as the retail arm of the De Beers Group, opening its first flagship on Old Bond Street in 2002. While the company built its reputation on sourcing expertise and access to rough stones, it has also played a key role in defining how diamonds are worn. The brand is widely credited with popularising the modern diamond engagement ring and has gone on to create several signature jewellery collections, including Enchanted Lotus, inspired by the lotus flower, and Dewdrop, which reimagines morning dew collecting on flower petals as glittering baubles.

Today, De Beers remains the only luxury jeweller with direct access to its own supply of rough diamonds, sourced from Botswana, Namibia, South Africa and Canada. That access allows it to work with stones in their most natural form – untouched, uncut and millions of years old.

Indeed, Talisman was among the first to challenge traditional jewellery silhouettes by placing rough diamonds, which were once considered too raw or irregular, at the centre of design. These diamonds are left in their natural state, revealing their true character: colour inclusions, asymmetry, surface texture and all. In ancient cultures, such stones were worn as protective talismans and were believed to carry spiritual energy and strength. De Beers revived that narrative, offering jewellery that connects the wearer to the Earth’s history and to its own.

“What makes this collection truly special is its celebration of the talismanic power of diamonds,” says the studio. “Long before they became a token of love, diamonds were seen as lucky symbols of strength, and Talisman honours that legacy. This sentiment resonates with our clients on a personal level, making each piece more than a piece of jewellery, but a meaningful and personal emblem.”

from left: Talisman Line necklace in 18k yellow gold, rough yellow diamonds and polished white diamonds by DE BEERS; from top: Talisman bangles in 18k rose gold, 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold, rough and polished diamonds by DE BEERS

Each item in the collection begins with diamond selection. “We are experts in striking a harmonious balance between rough and polished diamonds, considering not only their shape and colour, but also their energy, individuality and innate beauty,” says the studio. Stones are chosen for their natural tones, such as green, brown and yellow, and crystal forms: octahedrons, cuboctahedrons and the rarer cubic shapes.

Each diamond is set using serti poinçon, a traditional goldsmithing technique revived by De Beers. The method involves hammering tiny indentations into the metal with a pyramid-shaped chisel, so the diamond becomes embedded within the surface. This eliminates the need for claws and gives the setting a distinctive, almost ancient-looking, textured finish. “It enhances the uniqueness of each piece,” the studio says, “enveloping each diamond as though it is nestled within the metal itself.”

The original piece in the collection – the Talisman medallion – remains its most famed, with its concentric rings of rough and polished diamonds inspired by ceremonial medals and ancient shields. Crafted in yellow, white or rose gold and available in various sizes, the medallion continues to serve as the collection’s signature. “It connects the wearer to the earth’s grounding energy,” says the studio, “while symbolising the brilliance that can emerge through growth and transformation.” The medallion has helped to establish the collection’s sculptural design language, which, over the years, has expanded its offering of pieces while staying true to these foundations.

To celebrate the anniversary, De Beers has two major launches. First is a suite of high jewellery that reinterprets classic silhouettes through the lens of rough diamond design. The line includes a necklace, bracelet, chandelier earrings and the Talisman Trio ring.

from left: Talisman Cocktail earrings in 18k yellow gold, rough yellow diamonds and white micropavé diamonds by DE BEERS; Talisman small hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold, round brilliant, rose-cut polished diamonds and rough, white and fancy colour diamonds by DE BEERS

Each piece combines rough yellow diamonds with brilliant-cut white stones in minimal settings. Knife-edge links give the necklace and bracelet a fluid, floating appearance, while the chandelier earrings are engineered to catch light and move with the body. The Trio ring, meanwhile, frames a two-carat brilliant-cut diamond between two rough yellow stones, emphasising the “raw and refined” principle that underpins the collection. “Every creation is built around a central focal stone,” says the studio. “The surrounding diamonds radiate outward, placed deliberately to form a composition that feels both cohesive and expressive.”

Serti poinçon features prominently across the new high jewellery suite, with the same textured gold finish appearing on clasps and settings – allowing for a seamless integration of rough stones while emphasising the tactile quality of each piece.

The second anniversary launch is the Talisman Locket, a limited-edition design that builds on the idea of jewellery as a deeply personal keepsake. With just 20 made, the locket is crafted in yellow gold and set with rough brown and yellow diamonds alongside polished white stones. It opens to reveal a concealed compartment and a polished gold disc, which can be engraved on both sides with names, dates or messages. Its removable frame allows for the inclusion of a small photograph or handwritten note.

“The new Talisman Locket is a limited-edition and customisable design, launched in celebration of the 20th anniversary of the collection,” says the creative studio. “These lockets are another extension of the Talisman narrative, something that reinforces its identity as a powerful keepsake that carries an emotional connection for the wearer.”

Talisman Chandelier earring in 18k yellow gold, rough yellow diamonds and polished white diamonds by DE BEERS

Unlike other pendants in the collection, which use a mise à jour (or ‘daylight’) setting that exposes the back of the stone to light, the locket features a solid structure. This creates space for hidden personalisation, reflecting a growing desire for jewellery with personal significance.

“Each of the rough diamonds is unique, so no two pieces are ever the same,” says the studio. This uniqueness is not incidental, it’s intentional. These imperfections, hues and crystal forms are not flaws to be hidden, but features to be revealed.

“Each continues to celebrate the balance of raw and refined, which defines this iconic collection,” De Beers adds. Even two decades later, the appeal of Talisman lies in its embrace of individuality and imperfection. Rough diamonds, once overlooked, are now celebrated for their inherent character, history and form.

“We have a profound appreciation for all diamonds, particularly the natural beauty and unique history of rough diamonds,” says the studio. “As we celebrate the 20th anniversary of this collection, we hope to capture the attention of new and existing audiences – those who will cherish the distinctive beauty of rough diamonds as much as we do.”

Taken from 10 Magazine Issue 75 – BIRTHDAY, EVOLVE, TRANSFORMATION – out on newsstands now. Order your copy here. 

DE BEERS: TANTALISING TALISMAN

Photographer DAVID ENGLISH
Creative Director SOPHIA NEOPHITOU
Text JOSHUA HENDREN
Sittings editor GEORGIA EDWARDS
Hand models STACEY HANNANT and KLAUDIA KOWALOWKA at Body London
Manicurists HAYLEY EVANS-SMITH at Saint Luke Artists and JASMIN SAMAVATI at One Represents
Set designer SCARLET WINTER
Photographer’s assistants MADISON BLAIR and CHESTER LEWIS
Set designer’s assistant ANNEMARIEKE KLOOSTERHOF
Production ZAC APOSTOLOU and SONYA MAZURYK
Post-production CLOSER POST

Talisman Locket necklace in 18k yellow gold, rough brown and yellow diamonds and polished white diamonds by DE BEERS