February 29, 2024 |
Courrèges’ AW24 collection began with a gesture – the “intimate choreography of a hand wrapping a scarf around a neck”. This evolved into an exploration of shape, especially that of scarfs and their geometric nature. This, combined with symmetry and sensuality was translated into fluid, instinctive silhouettes that exalted the formality of heritage cuts, imbuing looks with a visceral sense of modernity and and air of futurism instead.
As Nicolas Di Felice’s models started their saunter, the soothing tone of a woman’s voice washed over the space. “Take it, Take it slow” she repeated, before the soundtrack shifted into an ascending composition created by Sene, Sophie Koella and Di Felice himself.
Clothes adhered to the architectural fantasy of the brand and reduced designs to their primary shapes; think rectangular tops that only covered the front of the body – these were sometimes constructed with hoods –, boxy jackets and trench coats with crossover panelling and form-fitting dresses with dangling straps that could perhaps be pulled up and worn over the shoulder for a hybrid look. Ensembles were functional and presented in a streamlined, colour palette – white, red and black with splashes of chocolate and charcoal.
As models marched, the centre of the white, lycra-coated catwalk began to inflate like a lung. As if it were living and breathing, the heaving floor – concocted by Di Felice, artist Rémy Brière and creative polymaths Matière Noire – drove forward the collection’s crescendo. To the haunting melody of Chopin’s ‘Nocturne’ sheathes of sheer black silk in the shape of slinky asymmetric dresses, buttery leather twinsets and black, buckle-on slips with feather-like appliques closed the show. It was a truly meditative display.
Photography courtesy of Courreges.
