April 4, 2025 |
For its SS25 show, COS headed to Athens, where the towering Dionyssomarble Quarry on the edge of the city was transformed into a breathtaking catwalk setting. Creative director Karin Gustafsson, who is well-versed in bringing her minimalist vision to an international stage – previous COS outings have been staged in New York, Paris and Rome – says venturing to the Greek capital was a no-brainer.
“Athens is a city where history, architecture and modern design come together in a way that feels natural and deeply aligned with our values,” says Gustafsson.
The quarry has an important place in Athens’ structure, sourcing the same premium marble that went into building the Acropolis citadel in ancient times. Its cavernous structure was a delightful contrast to the clean shapes of the collection, which the designer noted were a dance “between structure and fluidity, strength and softness”.
“The city provides a setting which contrasts history and contemporary design – the combination of structured, modern shapes with soft elements runs throughout the collection – pieces that feel both luxurious and effortless,” says the designer. “Our show location creates a serene yet dramatic backdrop, enhancing the understated luxury of this season’s pieces. Its captivating atmosphere serves as the ideal setting, amplifying the subtle elegance and effortless sophistication that defines our collection.”
Friends of the brand, including actors Adrien Brody, Sharon Stone and Jodie Turner-Smith watched on as Gustafsson sent out relaxed suiting, liquid-y silk twinsets and easy-going smocks in marble-inspired off-whites and earthy tones borrowed from the city’s landscape.
There was plenty to marvel at here. Particularly striking was the women’s drapery, like knitted tops that snaked around the body in delightful formations. The design team likes to see “how different materials interact with the body”, says the designer.
Gustafsson had been studying Renaissance paintings to guide how her draped fabrics glided around the feminine form. The paintings also provided inspiration for a hazy green-tinted marble print introduced into the brand’s arsenal for the first time, achieved via photographing flower buds squished up towards the lens.
“We are continuously inspired by various locations, architecture and art forms each season,” says Gustafsson. “This season, Renaissance art also inspired elements of the colour palette, particularly a key in-house print, crafted through a new technique to achieve a marbled effect. This process captures light, movement and depth, much like the artistic approach seen in Renaissance works.”
Lightweight fabrics were used to craft wardrobe staples like baggy Bermuda shorts, semi-opaque vests, crisp tunics and slouched formal wear. Throughout, Gustafsson introduced various new components to her ever-evolving COS wardrobe including sleeveless men’s blazers, sock boots and the pair of dresses that closes the show that bounced beautifully as the models walked thanks to their intricate pleating work. “Thoughtful detailing, innovative techniques, and elegant forms create a look that is both contemporary and timeless,” adds Gustafsson.
Built to dress the brand’s loyal clientele wherever their travels take them, these were pieces that would look just as great bathed under the Athens sunshine as they would parading through the streets of London.
Photography courtesy of Cos. Shop the collection here.
