“Let’s get out of the black hole”. Though Rei Kawakubo’s words may be few when it comes to her show notes, her message rings clear. With her latest Comme des Garçons Homme Plus outing, it was as if the designer wanted to bring a moment of lightness to these dark times; a uniform to charge forward in to a place of optimism.
Models came with frazzled wigs and hockey masks that looked a little bit like Hannibal Lecter’s. Their clothes, however, weren’t menacing at all. Some suits came cut in shiny silver fabrics, others in gentle brocades. A focal point was the classic men’s tuxedo which was retooled in a variety of ways. Blazers were sliced in half to expose the midriff or came with cut outs at the back and were elongated to echo the silhouette of a tailcoat. Sometimes trousers were replaced with school boy shorts and shirts were swapped out for dresses that stretched beyond the knee. The most beautiful moment, however, were a series of all white looks that came out in unison to close the show. The suits were scrunched and warped into ruffles what looked like flower bulbs beginning to blossom. A sense of hopelessness, in bloom.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
