March 3, 2023 |
“I will show your lordship what a woman can do,” said Artemisia Gentileschi (1593 – c. 1656) during her celebrated 17th century existence. The Italian Baroque painter overcame many societal and personal struggles; she lived at a time when women’s bodies, and their choices, were strongly regulated, but she managed to subvert these norms and use her art to advocate for them, overcoming biases around the creative potential of womankind. Four centuries later Gentileschi is a feminist legend. She’s also the muse of Gabriela Hearst’s AW23 Chloé collection.
Like Gentileschi, Hearst bid to challenge societal norms with her exploration of the ever-pressing need to champion women as leaders, share their stories and contributions. So, placing women at the centre of the race to find climate solutions, reduce Chloé’s carbon footprint and create positive social change the sophisticated clothes were created in collaboration with a slew of ethical partners including Akanjo (a World Fair Trade Organisation), Mifuko, Sarah’s Bag, SilaiWali, ACBC and the Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI) which aims to transform fashion into an engine for poverty reduction and women’s empowerment.
The clothes were Renaissance-inspired; a puffer coat that resembles a cape had ruching along its seams; an off-the-shoulder midi dress featured bulbous bishop sleeves. Trousers with heart-shaped waists were carefully constructed from intricate latticing formed from hand-inserted leather braids and pintucks. Elsewhere, crinoline inspired panelling permeated chic high-neck frocks formed from stretchy lace and the Jewish Book of Esther was transposed as a graphic, multicoloured, tapestry onto gowns and handbags – some of which looked like little Mediaeval coin purses. Speaking of satchels, The iconic Marcie bag was completely deconstructed and reworked into a leather biker jacket with matching trousers and loafers to boot.
A sustainable range – from the seating to the digital ID QR code each item had, allowing for wearers to trace the entire chain of production – this Chloé collection was designed to stand the test of time.
Photography courtesy of Chloé.
