February 24, 2025 |
Dubbed Modern Antiquity, Chet Lo’s autumn/winter 2025 collection masterfully reclaimed and reinterpreted chinoiserie – from ‘chinois’ the French for Chinese, a European style popular in the 17th and 18th centuries that imitated Chinese, Japanese and other Asian art and design – through an authentic Asian lens. Confronting this, and other colonialist narratives, Lo transformed misrepresented artistic motifs into subversive, contemporary designs that honoured true Asian artistry.
Elevating his recognisable codes with a moody colour palette and simple silhouettes, the collection featured deconstructed and distorted classical Asian imagery. That meant tiger prints emerged from exaggerated patterns and traditional cloud motifs were reimagined through explosive, delicate floral formations. Signature textures and craft techniques were evident throughout, including Lo’s iconic merino wool spikes, intricate woven pleating and plush knitting techniques that bloomed multi-dimensional floral patterns. These elements imbued the collection with a certain depth and structure, reinforcing themes of transformation through fabric and form.
Then, tucked beneath spiky track pants and slinky skirts, a collaboration with Converse emerged, debuting exclusive, streamlined footwear that worked to complement the collection’s aesthetic.
Modern Antiquity stood as a powerful testament to cultural reclamation, reinvention and celebration, turning Western interpretations into a testament to Asian artistry.
Photography courtesy of Chet Lo.
