Entitled Bioluminescence, Chet Lo’s AW23 show yesterday looked to the natural phenomena to catalyse his evolution both figuratively and literally. Animals use it to attack predators, lure prey and court mates; Chet Lo is using it to create a new world. His maturation emerged with an energy that was leagues darker and deliciously experimental; gradient colours came in gradients across spiky dresses, cardigans and hoodies as an accent rather than the focal point.
While his signature popcorn fabrications were still alive and kicking, they were no longer omnipresent in the range. Instead, Lo added Knits woven from more organic and natural fibers, silk satin blouses and skirts, and laser-cut leather that looked like it had been run over by a car.
While they embarked on their subtly aggressive rampage of the runway, some models stuck out their tongues – which were dyed red and blue by some kind of candy consumed backstage. A meditation in the discovery of your own light, even when the ebb and flow gets dark, Bioluminescence finds beauty in the dark. Sit back, relax, and watch Chet Lo ascend.
Photography by Jason Lloyd-Evans.