July 8, 2025 |
This AW25 couture collection signalled the end of Chanel’s transitional era. It was the final collection created by the exceptional, in house-design studio, before Matthieu Blazy presents his debut collection in October.
The team leaned in to the founders timeless design language of elegance, modernity and freedom. Coco Chanel liberated women from corsets with clothes that offered freedom of movement, borrowing many of her ideas and fabrics from menswear. The tweed that she made her signature, was inspired by the grouse shooting jackets worn by her lover the Duke of Westminster on the grouse moor. Tweed featured heavily in this collection although, this being couture, many of those tweedy textures are created with layers of tulle ribbon and hand-embroidery.
An outdoorsy flavour ran through the collection, with chunky, tweedy, tufted and intensely textured looks projecting an elegantly rugged appeal. The menswear inspired proportions of tweed jackets and the sturdy thigh-high walking boots lent a strident attitude to the collection. Meanwhile texture played a starring role, with the atelier showing its virtuoso skills in creating tufted tweed boucle that looked like shearling and applying dynamic, fringed hems to classic suits.
Bejewelled gold buttons, liberally used, bore wheat motifs and wheat ears – a sign of abundance held dear by Coco – were embroidered onto flounced dresses, trouser sets and the neckline of the wedding dress. The bride also carried a bouquet of gilded wheat.
For evening, the atelier lightened everything up, creating flounced gowns that fluttered and flowed. Some worn with cardigan jackets telegraphed the elegant, effortless style that is forever Chanel.
Lorde, fresh from her Glastonbury triumph, applauded from the front row. The Atelier deserved its tributes, creating seven collections for the house rich with craft and couture-level detailing. That transitional chapter is now complete and a new one begins. All eyes on Matthieu Blazy and the fresh energy he will bring to this storied house.
Photography courtesy of Chanel.
