October 6, 2025 |
Michael Rider’s ready-to-wear debut for Celine unfolded en plein air at the Parc de Saint-Cloud, perched on an elevated runway beneath the day’s blue sky. Sunlight and a soft breeze gave the clothes room to move, and what came out was a confident continuation of the resort show he staged in July.
Rider is balancing Celine’s two legacies – Hedi Slimane’s rock n rock sensibility and Phoebe Philo’s feminine ease. That meant plenty of crisp, oversized tailoring that was paired with skinny cigarette trousers. There were also cropped military trenches which were softened with languid wide-leg trousers and cascading silk scarves tied into tunics and sleek tops. There was an equestrian thread too: straw hats, riding helmets slung over arms, thick leather belts, and even metallic belts seemingly made from discarded horseshoes – shine intact.
The ‘60s spirit was alive in daisy-printed micro-minis, knickers peeking out from underneath, paired with round sunglasses and half-hand gloves. Knitwear came stamped with bold Celine logo intarsia, while a cream blazer sliced with a pure white panel seemed to ripple with movement. For evening, a black floor-length gown bloomed into a layered skirt, with one stripy arm adding a touch of colour, and later, a purple sequin dress sparkled with unapologetic optimism.
Colours spanned sunset orange, crimson and cobalt, while leopard and stripes punctuated the mix. Rider’s Celine feels conservative enough for a luncheon, but never dull – polished, playful, and made for both women and men.
Photography courtesy of Celine.
