Menswear

"Finding the humanity and acknowledging the machine." Maison Margiela love to get philosophical. But their menswear kine has always been subtitled "a wardrobe for men" and hence imbued with a sense of pragmatism. They called this show a pastiche of

We love Joy Division. Who doesn't love Joy Division? Idiots, that's who. Junya Watanabe played nothing bar Joy Division at his show, which was worth the trek to the 20th arrondissement just to listen to, never mind watch. But luckily,

So many people have been pumping up volumes, strapping up punk homages, wearing out cloth and blurring gender boundaries, it's easy to think it's all edgy and new. It's easy to forget that designers like Yohji Yamamoto were there right

Is this the real life? Is this just fantasy? Were Queen at a Dries Van Noten show when they wrote that? My guess is yes. The latest mixed the psychedelic fantasies of sixties artist Wes Wilson with traditional military braidings, a

Julien's always been a dab hand when it comes to fabric. And his AW16 offering was no different - here was his take on denim, denim ready to rule the future - the Japanese stretch stuff bonded with jersey for a spongy,

Save and survive. That was Gosha Rubchinskiy's show title - he wasn't thinking pessimistically, but rather quoting an old Russian saying. Not sure if it was about saving money to buy Gosha's gorg clothes (maybe), or about saving yourself. Probably.

Junichi Abe of Kolor is married to Chitose Abe of Sacai. They're a fashion power couple. That fact also illuminates Mr Abe's approach to fabric and cloth, which shares an affinity with his Mrs. The notion for autumn/winter 2026 was

A giant bubbly puffer coat like a vat of bubbling tar. A few melting Wicked Witch If The West shearlings slipping and sliding about the body. A bleached bit of denim that looks, we must admit, a bit like a

Neonomad. The new traveller. We love travelling - mostly for air miles, which means we can travel even more. But travelling necessitates carting your couture about the globe, plus a few steamers and, if you're the permanently needle-heeled editor in

"Nightmares and Dreams" was Raf Simons' title for his autumn/winter 2016 show. We feel it was more of the latter than the former in the crunchy knits, the elephantine sweaters and cardies punctuated with Letterman typography and trailing beyond the

Lush velvet, glimmering sequins, and "flaccid pompadours" - Haider Ackermann's quote, not ours. Those were the components that made up his autumn/winter 2016 collection, filled with the sort of skimpy drainpipe trews and skinny tailoring Ackermann aficionados fall over each