Acne Studios: Menswear AW17
It was back to school with a four part lecture on self portraiture at Acne Studios’ AW17 presentation. Which was handy. Like, did you know that "in traditional portraiture the nose was a sign of sexual power and of
Sacai: Menswear AW17
In a season where hybrid garments - half pac-a-mac, half suit blazer; a cross between a jumper and a coat - are high ion the agenda, Chitose Abe was in her element. Hybrids have extended to the catwalks themselves too,
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus: Menswear AW17
Boys love toys. We know that well. So does Rei Kawakubo, who was in an unusually playful mood for her Winter 2017 Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collection. Her boys didn't just love their toys, they wore them, with mounds
Berluti: Menswear AW17
Haider Ackermann's Berluti debut was the hot ticket of Paris' menswear shows. Why? Because everyone has wanted to see, for a long time, what Ackermann's would do if flexing his creative muscle under another label - he's been proposed for
Watch Balmain’s AW17 Menswear Show At 4pm GMT
Important menswear-based alert: we'll be showing Olivier Rousteing's AW17 menswear show for the house of Balmain live, right here, at 4pm GMT. Dress code: glam. Cover photograph by Jason Lloyd-Evans www.balmain.com
Givenchy: Menswear AW17
America is on everyone’s minds right now - before Riccardo Tisci’s latest Givenchy collection kicked off, journos were passing around images of the Trump inauguration and commiserating with the US press. Tisci has turned to it before for Givenchy inspiration -
Ann Demeulemeester: Menswear AW17
Gothy guys (and girls, but w’ere talking about menswear here) adore Ann Demeulemeester. Which you get - Demeulemeester did it better than anyone else, and Sébastien Meunier, the inheritor of her dark mantle, follows in her bovver-booted footsteps. This autumn/winter
Junya Watanabe: Menswear AW17
So, this autumn/winter looks set to be the season of power partnerships: hardcore and heavyweight fashion hook-ups. Sounds saucy - but, yeah, these involve wearing lots of clothes. First Vuitton’s doing a line with Supreme and now Junya Watanabe’s collabing
Juun.J: Menswear AW17
Happy birthday Juun.J! That conveniently rhymes, and neatly describes the fact that… well, it’s Juun.J’s birthday. Not the actual birthday of the actual Mr Juun.J, but of his label, which hits a decade in business this season. Doing so made
Watch Givenchy’s AW17 Menswear Show At 5pm GMT
It's Friday. It's 5pm. You're not working. If you are, stop. Instead, feast your eyes on Riccardo Tisci's latest menswear collection for the house of Givenchy. Best consumed with booze. Cover photograph by Jason Lloyd-Evans www.givenchy.com
Dries Van Noten: Menswear AW17
Dries Van Noten is obsessed with cloth - at least, he was this season. Seems like a daft thing to say, as without cloth we’d all be naked like the fashion show in that dodgy Robert Altman film Prêt-à-porter (incidentally,
Yohji Yamamoto: Menswear AW17
There are a multitude of references to Yohji Yamamoto’s eighties heyday abounding on the catwalks of the winter 2017 season - the wide shoulder and fluid, unstructured shapes characteristic of his clothes back then are looking right for right now.
Louis Vuitton: Menswear AW17
Collaboration is key at Louis Vuitton - they done it with Takashai Murakami, with Richard Prince, with Stephen Spouse and several times with Jake and Dinos Chapman - their ghoulish menagerie of mutated animals grinned from many a clutched man-bag
Rick Owens: Menswear AW17
Is Rick Owens a covert Mariah Carey fan? You may scoff, but backstage at his winter 2017 show the title writ large above the looks was “GLITTER”. Immediately you thought of the ill-fated album, or perhaps the film dubbed one
Off-White: Menswear AW17
Who would have had Virgil Abloh down as a C.S. Lewis aficionado? There was definitely something of the Narnia to his winter 2017 offering, as models trudged through an enchanted wood erected inside the UNESCO building. Although there was no