March 6, 2026 |
At Carven AW26, out came a certain kind of Parisian woman – composed, self-assured and carrying herself with a quiet, studied nonchalance. There was intention in everything. That devil-may-care attitude, but sharpened through the discipline of what design director Mark Thomas called “uniform tailoring”.
There were tops and dresses cut with rounded, almost spherical shoulders and overcoats cinched with thin leather belts, giving the silhouette structure without feeling severe. Panelled dresses and blouses echoed those sculptural curves, a nod to 1950s couture, while origami-like skirts and a dress pieced together like slips of paper showed Thomas playing with construction.
Elsewhere, the mood softened. Satin slips layered under sheer mesh ones, sometimes slipping off a single shoulder, brought a restrained hint of boudoir. A standout smocked bronze gown bounced lightly with each step. Textured knits arrived fringed or flounced, while fringed overcoats, dresses and scarves felt lifted from the language of interiors – carpets, drapes, blankets – translated into motion.
The palette stayed muted: burgundy, ice blue, navy, grey marl, army green, tan, cream, black and aubergine. Controlled but not rigid, the collection balanced structure with intimacy – clothes for a woman clearly going somewhere, and dressing with purpose.
Photography courtesy of Carven.
