July 17, 2024 |
Jaimee Callon McKenna is far from finished. The brains behind Kepler London, which she founded in 2016 alongside Alexandra Hadji and shuttered in 2022, the London-based creative has now launched Callon London. A renewed incubator where her love of knitwear, textiles, historical garments and craftsmanship can grow, the label focuses on creating artisanal ‘heirloom’ products with longevity in mind. Her first foray with this refreshed vision? A collection entitled Bíseach.
With Kepler under her belt, this isn’t McKenna’s first stab at moulding her personal aesthetic. “Textural, mindful, sensual, sculptural, artisanal, innovative, graceful,” she states, describing the themes that influence her design language. “The hope for the aesthetic is to seamlessly blend sensuality with artisanal craftsmanship, embracing both modernity and innovation,” McKenna says. “Each piece reflects a deep respect for traditional techniques while infusing them with contemporary spirit. The designs are marked by their textured richness and graceful silhouettes, capturing the alchemy of femininity with a romantic and spiritual touch. Every garment is meticulously considered, balancing the timeless beauty of classic craftsmanship with innovative approaches, resulting in pieces that are both evocative and elegantly modern.”
Having such clarity doesn’t come without putting in the work. If McKenna is anything, it’s researched and considered. Speaking on which periods influenced her the most, she says, “In this collection, a wide range of historical influences converge, particularly the intricate corsetry of the 17th century, which has been reimagined into knitwear… The collection also draws inspiration from 16th-century Renaissance armour, noted for its elaborate detailing, elegant silhouettes, and layered textures.” Elaborating on this point, she says, “I am captivated by the idea of crafting garments that serve as a modern ‘shield’; pieces that impart strength and empowerment while encasing the body with grace, creating armour for the modern-day wearer.”
This approach clearly feeds into the garments presented in the brand’s debut offering. Corset bodices are hand-made with crochet and hand embroidery, inspired by Celtic stones. Nodding to the idea of clothing as a means of power and protection for the modern woman, certain pieces are also adorned with a spiral motif from which the collection found its name. Speaking on what it symbolises, McKenna says, “During this creative process, spirals emerged as a recurring motif; whether I was sketching, weaving, or incorporating them into pottery and textiles. I encountered spirals everywhere: in architecture, furniture, and even in my minds eye.”
“I was drawn to the rich symbolism of spirals, which represent a dynamic journey of ascension and descent,” she continues, “As one of the oldest geometric symbols, the spiral predates written language and is deeply connected to feminine energy and creativity. It embodies themes of cycles, death and rebirth, change, and progression; concepts that resonated deeply with me at this time. The spiral reflects the very essence of the universe, often associated with the golden ratio, and is both aesthetically captivating and intellectually stimulating.”
With a stellar initiation like this, considering what’s next for Callon London is an intriguing topic. “More mindful clothing where threads are woven with intention and imbued with meaningful messages,” McKenna posits. “Drawing inspiration from history and the cosmos, the focus remains on knitwear; embracing its versatility and depth.”
From the way she talks about her work, you can tell McKenna’s love and passion for her craft is authentic. It makes you want her to succeed even more, a feeling further burgeoned by an appreciation of the beauty of her clothes. Likely to leave as big an impact as Kepler, if not bigger, Callon London is a brand to keep your eyes on.
Photography by Stephen Elwyn. Styling by Elizabeth Fraser-Bell and make-up and hair by Keia Tamsin.
