August 17, 2023 |
Futuristic and fantastical, this year’s shows recalled motifs from mythical folklore and mediaeval times, but brought them full-throttle forward into the future – one awash with inscrutable uncertainty. As we venture into that era, what lies ahead only becomes more unnerving and ambivalent: apparently the planet is boiling, leadership in England is changing and advancements in artificial intelligence and tech are starting to look like something straight out of a sci-fi film. Whether we’re seeking escapism from this increasingly unassured future or protection from the pitfalls it’ll probably bring with it, fashion has armoured itself against the great unknown; we’re wearing breastplates, chainmail and full on suited-and-booted sheathing like knights in shining armour now.
Take it from Eli Russel Linnetz’ ERL, whose SS24 show at Pitti Uomo manifested metallic armour in the most literal way. A model sauntered down the runway in a sparkling jet black set, sword and shield in hand. Titled Make Believe, the collection would have fit like a jigsaw puzzle into a period piece – perhaps this was a nod to Linnetz’ cinematic background – all the sharp shoulders, silver sequin trousers and munitions considered.
ERL Menswear SS24
Inspired by the styles of 17th-century soldiers of the Swedish army during the reigns of Kings Charles XI and Charles XII of Sweden, 1680 specifically, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy’s SS24 menswear collection reimagined modern UK citizens, under the reign of King Charles III, as new Caroleans themselves. The Scottsman reimagine what the new King’s coronation might have looked like in a more Elysian parallel, “in which everyone gets to wear a crown”, combining traditional garb worn by Caroleans during the Restoration of 1660 with high-tech sportswear and warped graphics. The modern militia sported green garments adorned by graphic swords, crowns and hearts, with of course, a trusty sword and shield in hand. Other knights wore decorative armoured breastplates and sturdy gauntlets sculpted from upcycled Wedgwood jasperware. The battle continued with Jeffrey’s knights meeting their match with a ferocious lion-like look. Peering out from behind the fangs of a full dragon mask, the model held a vicious expression. His look was complemented by lion claw boots and gauntlets.
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Menswear SS24
Balenciaga is no stranger to chevalier-inspired looks either. The maison’s AW21 collection replaced its typical big black boots with thigh-high replicas of Elizabethan armour. Fast-forward a few years and Eliza Douglas was closing its AW23 Couture show in a Jeanne d’Arc (patron saint of high fashion) chrome-laminated bell-skirted suit of plated armour. That impenetrable look of vambraces, pauldrons and breastplates was made of 3D-printed resin and galvanised metal – a feat which took 10 months to complete.
Over at Rabanne’s SS23 showcase, Julien Dossena preferred a day to ‘knight’ look, mining mediaeval cataphract dress for its space-age potential and in turn morphing metal mesh with sanguine latex to create glittering gowns akin to armour. Babushka-style headscarves were studded with metal grommets and draped over the sequin sheathed scale armour garb in a kind of new-age Rococo way.
From Left: Balenciaga Ready-To-Wear AW21 and Couture AW23
A delight of couture week, Dossena’s guest designer gig at the house of Jean Paul Gaultier in June similarly modernised mediaeval regalia by whipping up a replica of the famous pointy-bra dress from Gaultier’s first collection in 1984 in shimmering silver chainmail.
Even Blumarine took up arms, sending a standout silver gown in a heavy metal mesh over a delicate black two-piece onto its AW23 runway. There was a glimmering gold version too and a skin tight silver set that, while made from a spandex-like fabric, felt fortified. Like Demna, Nicola Brognano pulled inspiration from Joan of Arc for an intense and slightly erotic, antiquated affair.
Jean Paul Gaultier x Julien Dossena Couture AW23
The knight in shining armour is more than just a relic, it’s an emblem of protection that transcends time – and fashion. Maybe the emergence of armourcore reflects the ways in which fashion can transport us to other worlds beyond our wildest dreams or ignite a sense of childlike wonderment. Or perhaps it’s as simple as Demna said after Balenciaga’s armour-clad couture show in June: “Making clothes is my armour.”
Blumarine Ready-To-Wear AW23
Paco Rabanne Ready-To-Wear SS23
