June 30, 2023 |
A warped, borderline trippy, Prince of Wales check at the core of Daniel Lee’s sophomore collection for Burberry feels appropriate for Britain today, where life on this silly little island can often feel like being trapped in one big endless K-hole. Following on from his debut back in February, the Yorkshire-born designer continues to mine the heritage brand’s extensive archive to reimagine British wardrobe archetypes for today.
His spring 2024 collection is littered with cracking outerwear – houndstooth car coats, hulking duffels, quilted bombers, sherbet-hued faux fur chubbies – and a wealth of clever garment adaptations. Take the trench coat, for instance, here transformed into a lightweight nylon frock, or silk chiffon dresses equipped with hoods for when it decides to piss it down.
Amidst roomy silhouettes are Savile Row-inspired peak lapel jackets with nipped in waists, while duck motifs and skewiff argyle prints bring the joy factor.
At Bottega Veneta, Lee proved himself a maestro in the accessories department, a skill he’s set to emulate at Burberry with a slew of equestrian-style boots, rounded leather pumps and trainers which come in swollen proportions. The tool box-shaped Peg bag (named after its clothes-peg closure) and the Knight bag (distinctive for its bridled horse clip, a nod to the house’s Prorsum knight emblem), are the highest contenders for Lee’s next It bag hit.
Photography Tyrone Lebon.
