Brunello Cucinelli is the king of the quiet luxury club. Actually, he prefers to call his clothes a pillar of high quality creation, but it’s difficult to deny the understated elegance of his SS24 menswear collection.
As always, it was a leisurely assortment of everyday and formalwear, underscored by big carryall bags and horsebit loafers or tasseled boat shoes. With a stay-the-same mentality that only makes slight adjustments to house signatures for each new season, light-cotton classic shirts, slouchy blazers, pleated shorts, blousons and bow ties, were intermittently dotted with micro-effect prints like Donegal, herringbone, paisley and grain de rice. It was all very Cucinelli-esque, overflowing with a relaxed attitude, soft proportions and deceptively low-key tailoring. Standouts included a couture-style cashmere coat and special ribbed-knit sweaters, which, collared or crew neck, were the perfect companions for country clubbing.
The offering touched on the substance of time; the time it takes for artisanal creation; the time through which a garment is renewed and its intrinsic qualities refreshed. So, adhering to a persistent neutral palette of ivory, salmon, taupe, black, brown, navy or baby blue and maroon, rendered in high-end natural fabrics with tangible summer textures, the designer created clothes that can be mixed and matched with just about anything; a wardrobe to last a lifetime.
A real-life example of the stealth-wealth-style ignited by HBO’s Succession (or the billionaire bore-core trend as its been coined over on TikTok), Brunello Cucinelli’s summertime selection is for the well-groomed, dapper man, unspeakably priced espadrilles and all.
Photography courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.
