February 27, 2022 |
Matthieu Blazy’s hotly-anticipated debut for Bottega Veneta on Saturday night in Milan was the kind of show that was as radical as it was restorative. In a display of technically perfected pragmatism, the collection took us on a journey and tricked our eye along the way.
It started with a white vest and a pair of jeans – or did it? The opening two pairs of classic tanks and low-slung straight-legs were, in fact, crafted from a supple nubuck which had been printed so to appear as a pair of jeans (yep, really); the business shirts that he imagined his women borrowing from their lovers were not really the traditional type of oxford cotton, but instead also cut from a paper-thin leather (mmm mmm, we know); and thigh-high boots that appeared to be trousers that appeared to be boots, were crafted in one piece from the house’s signature intrecciato (right?!)
They were joined by the kind of exquisitely cut wool-flannel and herringbone suiting that has the power to transform your mood and make you feel a million dollars; a series of triple-printed dresses and shrunken knits that instilled a nostalgic charm; and embroidered sequinned slips that are already the dresses of next season.
And the bags! The part-rucksack, part-tote Kalimero bag came big and small and was worn over and on both sides of the shoulder, while cushioned pillow bags and box clutches were clasped under arms. “[Bottega] is a bag company, so you go somewhere, you don’t stay home!” he told us backstage. “This was a journey of many characters. They all have places to go.”
The long-term Bottega and Celine designer’s ascent to the creative director role has been a steady and celebrated one with Blazy biding his time to take the reins from former boss Daniel Lee. “It’s a challenge,” he honestly admitted backstage, “but at the same time I really think it was the right time. I feel secure enough, I know how to do my job, which is a job, so voila! I’m happy.” As are we.
Photography courtesy of Bottega Veneta.
