October 31, 2025 |
On an especially autumnal Saturday evening in Chelsea, my partner and I strolled down King’s Road on our way to an early evening dinner. Beneath my Christian Louboutin So Kate’s, came the crunch of golden and burnt-orange leaves which peppered the pavement. At eye level, where Milman’s Street meets the curve of the road, we spotted Bottarga, its glistening tan corner façade gently beckoning us inside.
Almost a year has passed since Bottarga first opened its doors in November 2024. Belonging to the Pachamama Group, the restaurant remains one of the city’s most sought-after culinary spots. With reservations booked out weeks in advance, it’s become a fixture on every diner’s wish list perhaps because of its warm, homely feel, but more likely because of the delectable food options. The menu, created by group executive chef Tzoulio Loulai, reimagines traditional Greek dishes with a modern sensibility, balancing tradition and creativity, and it was one we were buzzing to try.
Candlelight spilled from the windows, even before we reached the entrance, but when we did, a lively aura drifted out from behind the gold brass hardware used to pull open the door. Stepping through a neutral calico curtain into the buzz that is Bottarga, we noticed a golden glow blooming out from the flickering candlelights and a gentle shimmer from low-hanging chandeliers that were suspended above certain tables. The room hummed with energy: the clinking of cutlery, low murmur of conversation and the occasional burst of laughter. Before we could even take it all in, the cheerful front of house staff greeted us with the kind of welcome that instantly makes you feel like a regular.
Inside Bottarga, you’ll find a seamless blend of classic European charm – as if you were dining on a summer isle – and modern artistic edge. Tables draped in crisp white linens contrast the raw texture of the concrete walls which hold bold, contemporary artworks. The overall mood was intimate yet effortlessly cool, the kind of place where laughter lingers and every detail, from the perfectly imperfect wall textures and eclectic random crockery, feels intentional. It’s a setting that invites both comfort and curiosity just as if you are having dinner at home, you feel welcomed.
Our round table, positioned by the open kitchen, was the perfect spot to watch the chefs at work – calm, focused and turning out dishes that carried with them the warmth of the Greek isles. The air was filled with the smell of grilled fish, citrus and herbs drifting our way as we scanned through the one-sheet menu stamped with an open sardine tin, already debating what we’d order next.
We began with cocktails. A blush-pink Cosmopolitan arrived first, a Carrie Bradshaw go-to, and one I will always order. It was simple and classic, with a curl of orange peel floating on top. Then came the Margarita Icarus, Bottarga’s fiery take on the classic cocktail, with habanero and a bright hit of kumquat. The Chicama Pisco Sour followed, smooth and creamy with a thick layer of foam and citrus charm. Finally, The Negroily, Bottarga’s clever twist on a Negroni, finished with a touch of olive oil – unexpectedly fresh and quietly brilliant.
As we lingered over our cocktails, a silver platter arrived carrying warm pita, soft in the middle and crisp at the edges, dusted with fragrant herbs. It was the kind of bread that disappears before you even realise it’s gone. Alongside it came two dips: a fiery feta and red pepper mix with just the right kick topped with chimichurri, and a cool, creamy tzatziki both served in a delicate oval egg-like glass bowls.
A variety of sharing plates graced the table next, each one arriving with confidence. First the Gilda, on slender silver skewers, the brine of an Amfisa olive, kick of chilli heat, and the salt of anchovy was a perfectly composed bite. The saganaki tapioca bites followed, golden and crisp on the outside, with a subtle nuttiness that gave way to a sweetness of honey, instantly addictive. Crispy calamari next, light and delicate finished with a touch of grated lime zest that hinted at summer lunches somewhere along the Mediterranean coast. Lastly, a plate of thinly sliced cured wagyu, the marbling glistening under the low light, scattered with pickled guindilla peppers that cut through the richness.
Then came thin slices of Bluefin tuna. Glistening on top of a bed of roasted pepper, the fish’s freshness was brightened by grated lemon zest. Next, yellowtail, delicately sliced and served in a deep dish, was drenched in a citrusy yuzu dressing and crowned with jalapeños. The flavours unfolded gradually, fragrant and balanced, the silkiness of the fish cut through the yuzu with just the right amount of edge.
To continue, our server suggested a bottle of Côtes du Rhône, Domaine Les Trois Cellier 2020 to pair with the main courses we had ordered. A medium-bodied wine, with soft cherry and plum notes, it was smooth with each sip.
Crisp-skinned lamb belly gave way to a tender, buttery centre; chicken lifted with lemon and thyme emulsion arrived too, simple and refreshing. The sea bass served with a small silver jug of amarillo butter was smooth, balanced and unpretentious. Yet it was the orzo, glossed with fine shavings of bottarga, that stole the spotlight. Rich, creamy and delicately salty, it carried the depth of the Mediterranean without feeling heavy. Greek salad was served in a wide glass dish with intricate carvings around. The barrel-aged feta that topped slivers of red onion, olives, crisp cucumber and tomatoes paired perfectly with our mains.
Three silver platters arrived, each holding a dessert that seemed to speak before the first spoonful. The chocolate burnt cheesecake, its surface dark, was met with a stream of warm salted caramel chocolate glossy sauce that coated it. The texture was unexpectedly light, almost mousse-like, with a hint of salt to ground the sweetness. Next, a hazelnut semifreddo crowned with crumbles of hazelnut brittle offered a satisfying contrast of crunch and cream. Finally, the orange pie, a burst of bright citrus, was layered with kumquat and a silken orange cream. We closed the evening with a small glass of 2012 Fonseca Guimaraens Vintage Port – velvety, complex and just the right level of indulgence to end on.
Bottarga is the kind of place where the details don’t go unnoticed, from the warmth of the staff to the precision of flavour on each plate. It’s understated but full of personality; a restaurant I’d return to without hesitation.
Photography by Jessica Wang.
