November 24, 2023 |
BLINGIN’ IT IS TEN’S ONLINE SERIES WHERE WE SPOTLIGHT THE INNOVATORS AND CHANGE-MAKERS OF THE JEWELLERY WORLD.
“Do not give what is sacred to dogs, do not throw your pearls before swine, lest they trample them underfoot, and turn and tear you to pieces” (Matthew 7:6). Rarely is anything radical birthed from a bible verse and yet, Canadian jeweller Himo Martin has plucked not only a brand name, but a progressive ethos from such a pious book in an industry that is often so immovable. Matthew 7:6 asks that we not waste things of value on those who will only react with contempt at the offer itself. Canadian brand, Pearls Before Swine, founded by Martin in 2006 set out to revolutionise the ways in which the design and creation of jewellery was carried out across the industry at the time. Martin, perhaps, is suggesting that just because the ‘pigs’ do not value the ‘pearls’ we cast in front of them, it doesn’t mean they are devoid of beauty or worth.
Revolution finds its roots in frustration; for Martin this was realising uniformity was prioritised over individuality within the jewellery industry. The ecological cost of perfection witnesses massive amounts of pearls, jewels and metals discarded for failing to meet hard-to-reach regulations in terms of shape, size and colour. This blatant disregard for nature, in terms of the industry’s methods of sourcing, but also in its stubborn plight for total, natural perfection, has only served to spotlight PBS’ (Pearls Before Swine) radical practice.
Summarising PBS stylistically, Martin described his brand as, “Dungeon synth meets De Beers”. Handmade rawness is married with industrial sharpness, providing the pieces with a dark energy that encapsulates black metal aesthetics, whilst maintaining the high standards of luxury jewellery design that is so perpetuated by heritage high-jeweller De Beers. Looking at PBS jewellery, there’s a certain intensity at the heart of each piece, and yet the beautifully visceral nature of Martin’s designs is offset by his utterly sustainable approach innate to his production process.
Inspired by Cornish mythology, New Jersey hardcore bands and the early Norwegian black metal scene, it’s clear that Martin feels a connection, deep in his tissue, to the grimmer aesthetics that surround him. Whilst this serves to visually deliver the brand plenty of darkened, hardy aesthetics, its gentle approach to sourcing materials and producing pieces are the supple inner workings of a brand that, on the surface, oozes such angst. Pearls Before Swine appreciates nature for both her beauty and her voracious cruelty.
ON THE BIRTH OF PEARLS BEFORE SWINE
Martin: “The brand began with importing and distributing Akoya pearls from Japan into Canada. Since the export of pearls is regulated by the JPEA, there are specific guidelines on shape, size, colour, and lustre. If the pearls don’t meet these regulations, they’re crushed into powder.
“The rigid standards of the pearl market meant that uniformity overshadowed individuality. But I wanted to explore beyond the perfect spheres. So, I snuck some of the misshapen and off-coloured pearls – the misfits of the selection – back to Canada with me on a carry-on and used them as inspiration to craft my first pieces.
“I squatted in a punk house while creating my first collection. After a while though, I started to feel confined by my limited expertise so I retreated to a forested family property in Québec, rekindling my connection to craftsmanship by apprenticing with an eccentric blacksmith and woodworker.
“But it wasn’t until a transformative journey to Morocco that I truly understood the essence of artistry. A chance encounter with a master artisan of Fanoos revealed to me the simplicity and depth of creation – basic tools, dedication, and passion yielded stunning work. This experience shifted my perception, emphasizing that craftsmanship isn’t solely about perfect tools or a flawless collection but rather a journey defined by the creative process. I left Morocco inspired and quickly returned to Montreal where I set up a small studio loft and began applying this new perspective into the brand. After a few collections, I made my way to Paris to present my work.”
ON CRAFTING SUSTAINABLE BEAUTY
Martin: “Besides lab diamonds and recycled silver, we haven’t witnessed any major breakthroughs within the fashion/high-end jewellery market. When we saw an opportunity to shift our materials to Fairtrade, we jumped on it – an initiative not many others in the industry are doing yet. Pearls Before Swine operates on a small scale; production has and always will be, in-house. Working with Fairtrade Gold, Flocert, and Kimberly Certified Diamonds and Stones, we ensure the materials and stones we use are ethically sourced. We work with local suppliers and craftsmen for packaging and stone cutting. We want to try and keep everything as rooted as possible, always maintaining a low-impact mindset.
“When it comes to metals, we don’t deviate from the more conventional 14/18K gold or 925 Recycled Silver. We occasionally play around with black chrome finishes but we refuse to explore the idea of gold or silver plating. We know the core collection has to feel accessible and we want to ensure we are inclusive, so we tend to offer core pieces in silver. When it comes to the more elaborate pieces in the collection, that’s where we start thinking of colour palettes and how gnarly we can take things.”
ON PLUCKING INSPIRATION FROM THE BIBLE AND BLACK METAL MUSIC
Martin: “Do not give what is sacred to dogs, or throw your pearls before swine, lest they trample them underfoot, and turn and tear you to pieces.” (Mathew 7:6) This verse resonated deeply with me and reflects how I approach designing for the brand. I craft pieces that hold personal meaning, unconcerned about universal approval. This approach ensures consistency in creating items that resonate with those who are naturally drawn to them. Rather than being driven by trends, my process is rooted in moments, memories, and aspirations.
“Years ago, I connected with Joshua, a former SSENSE menswear buyer, who now serves as the Commercial Director for Pearls Before Swine. Our collaborative process is organic, spanning from commercial core pieces to more elaborate ‘editorial’ pieces. We focus on drawing inspiration from various references to create a final edit that reflects our shared aesthetic for sourcing beauty in the absurd.
“Initially, I drew from organic influences, but as time has passed, and now collaborating with Joshua, I’m better equipped to push the boundaries and conventions of traditional jewellery production. Challenging my craft is key – it keeps me inspired. It’s a balance of craftsmanship and restraint, finding simplicity in the extravagance.
“These references and inspirations are the foundation of the brand – things we are into and experiencing, energy that’s just ingrained. The main source of inspiration would have to be the black metal and hardcore scene, content found within zines, band paraphernalia, and esoteric/occult references.”
ON HIS INTENTIONS AND AESTHETICS
Martin: “Our main goal is to create resonance with the brand, encompassing everything from the pieces themselves to our printed materials, content, inspirations, and experiences. We’re continuously striving to make this connection accessible to our customers.
“In product development, our design aesthetic takes precedence, with technical craftsmanship following closely. We often approach a near-complete design by stepping back to strategize on its execution, which allows us to think innovatively while ensuring a seamless final product that’s both raw and refined.
“While we don’t design specifically for one individual, we have several muses, one of them being Simon who lodges in a dilapidated farmhouse in Cornwall and who often frequents monasteries in Devon, UK. Our product tends to gravitate towards the ‘outcasts’ of society, who seem to wear it so well. The PBS man is a chaotic individual.
“We don’t design exclusively for men. During the whole design and production process, we envisage our product working for anyone. That being said, we’ve had more menswear stores discovering the brand recently, but even within those menswear accounts, a lot of the jewellery-specific buyers are women.”
ON THE FUTURE OF PEARLS BEFORE SWINE
Martin: “To operate outside of the shadows by continuing to challenge conventional contemporary jewellery aesthetics while reaching a wider audience with our hardcore aesthetic and eco-conscious approach.
“Until recently, we’ve very much operated within the shadows. Our brand is one of the very few that has been able to sustain a business with solid customer retention and global top-tier accounts purely off the product we produce, rather than hype or social presence. The current landscape is different though. We’ve had to shift our focus and adapt slightly to the need for a social presence. But ultimately, we will always approach our content and output from a non-conformist mindset.”
Photography courtesy of Pearls Before Swine.
