May 15, 2023 |
BLINGIN’ IT IS TEN’S ONLINE SERIES WHERE WE SPOTLIGHT THE INNOVATORS AND CHANGE-MAKERS OF THE JEWELLERY WORLD
“Understated elegance with subtle style signifiers that speak volumes,” – that’s the kind of sumptuous stuff Sophie Howard makes at her luxury jewellery brand, By Pariah. Working precious sapphires, amethyst, quartz, citrine, carnelian and more into recycled silver and nine karat or 14 karat gold, together with tangles of pearls and pendants, she evokes a sense of “tranquillity and serenity” in the wearer. Stackable rings sculpted in marble, aventurine, agate and jasper offer a notion of “connection to the natural materials that each piece is composed of”, as passels of perfect diamonds adorn dainty bands and birthstones dangle from earrings, beautifully coalescing as jewellery for the “global woman (and man!)”.
Founded in London in 2016, Howard’s conception of the label was sparked by a National Geographic article that explored the Pariah parts of the Caribbean, its snaking landscapes and untamed allure. Inspired by a land defined by crystal-clear turquoise waters, white sand beaches and twisted mangrove forests, By Pariah quickly became an ode to “untamed, organic geometrical shapes and the manifold, sumptuous textures found in minerals”.
An autodidact designer with a background in marketing and advertising, Howard’s creations are steeped in rich materiality as well as timeless heritage production techniques. Working intuitively, she sculpts new silhouettes as an extension of those that have come before with a sculptural eye, always seeking to “highlight the raw, natural beauty of the materials [she] employs”, she says. Describing her designs as “sophisticated but playful, with an appreciation for craftsmanship and the finest, natural materials,” Howard, admittedly, has a love for crude, untouched materials and very sculptural, architectural formations.
Operating as a one-woman team until recently, Howard defines her vision of luxury as “consideration and attention to detail”, as it applies to design, materials and execution, as well as separate aspects of life such as how one spends their time. Howard queries: “Is it considered and are you fully present?” In her mind, thoughtfulness is synonymous with luxury.
Over the past seven years, the brand has developed an indelible cult following of customers and celebrity fans who swear by By Pariah, even achieving global notoriety wrapped around the fingers and strung over the clavicle of celebs like Emma Corrin, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Hailey Bieber. So, as you might expect, Howard’s plans for the future are rather audacious. This year, Howard has all the gusto to dip her toes into first-time categories including unisex bijouterie which will arrive as part of By Pariah’s pre-Spring 2024 collection.
ON THE BIRTH OF BY PARIAH
Howard: “My love of jewellery and design goes all the way back to my childhood. My grandmother was an artist who used to produce silk scarves. Growing up we had two, big suitcases full of them and my brothers and I played endless dress up. There is a bead shop in Munich, where I grew up, and endless dress up eventually included endless beading. I then spent two years at school learning from the local silversmith how to hammer, solder and set stones before choosing a different career in fashion PR. Although jewellery wasn’t a craft that I worked in during my early professional life, it was certainly something that I had always taken a great interest in.
“I’m very much self-taught! I don’t have a background in jewellery design or starting and running a brand, for that matter. I was working for Armani in their PR team, and we had just finished a 40-year archive story with British Vogue, so our offices were filled with incredible couture pieces and for once we had some time on our hands. The beautiful and intricate designs of the clothes made me miss designing and making with my hands, and of course I already loved jewellery, so it felt like a natural transition. Rather than trying to gain some experience in the field I rather naively decided to start my brand right away, I was just too excited to get going! I’ve learnt a lot since then and the brand has evolved in many ways, but the foundations and core values have remained the same since the start – to create modern, attainable jewellery without compromising on quality and ethical practices.”
ON THE KEY COLLECTION PIECES
Howard: “From SS23 I love stacking our Petrichor rings. Petrichor is the earthy scent produced when rain falls on dry soil, so the rings feature smooth cabochon, raindrop shaped green amethyst or smoky quartz gemstones that playfully bounce on a 14k band.
“From the core collection I love our essential stacking and pebble cocktail rings. They are carved by hand and it takes a very skilled craftsman to carve the channel to precisely fit the gold band and pave diamonds. For me, the pebble cocktail ring embodies everything that By Pariah stands for.”
ON REFERENCING NATURE, THE CARIBBEAN AND ORGANIC FORMS
Howard: “I’ve always had an appreciation for nature; not in the naturalist way, but in the curves and forms of the earth, and its raw materials. This echoes in how I design – architectural, but bold and smooth. Nature finds a way to create the most sensual organic compositions without being predictable; it fascinates me and it’s something I try to recreate in my pieces.
“All my jewellery is intentionally tactile, designed to feel the materials each piece is composed of. This includes the luminosity of the stones that I use and the shapes I create. I think my jewellery draws you in and once you’ve felt a piece, you want to stay connected to it.”
ON CRAFTING JEWELLERY SUSTAINABLY
Howard: “All our pieces are made from 100 percent recycled gold and silver, certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council. We stand for a conflict-free diamond policy and purchase our stones only from suppliers who adhere to it. We are constantly reviewing our sustainability efforts and how we can improve those. We’re by no means perfect but are striving for a better, greener future.
“As of 2021, we have introduced lab grown diamonds on a small selection of designs. Seeking to limit environmental damage as much as possible, these diamonds are produced in factories using predominantly green energy. Above all, our collections are designed and made to be worn and loved for as long as possible. I believe in seasonless pieces that can be passed down from generation to generation, that are durable and transcend time. I find purpose and sustainability, in durability.
ON RUNNING A FEMALE-LED, FAMILY RUN BUSINESS
Howard: “Many of our vendors are small, family-run businesses, supporting heritage production techniques that have largely been left behind by modern mass-manufacturing. Every production partner is a certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council and is best in their respective category. Our intaglios are made in Greece and our chains come from Italy, for example.”
Photography courtesy of By Pariah.
