January 23, 2026 |
For AW26, Berluti sharpens its idea of modern elegance by grounding it firmly in wearability. This collection, titled The Art of Composition, is built for movement, not display, and that focus comes through most clearly in the footwear, where boots take centre stage. The Rombo boot, cut in Venezia calfskin, is the standout: mid-calf, cleanly proportioned, with a biker undertone that adds bite without tipping into costume. Goodyear welting and a discreet rubber insert on the sole make it feel genuinely city-ready. Elsewhere, the reworked Alessio Chelsea boot introduces a lightweight EVA sole that brings flexibility and comfort, without disturbing Berluti’s precise, polished line.
The ready-to-wear follows the same logic of ease meeting structure. Forestière jackets return as a key silhouette, this season expanded with the option of matching trousers, allowing for a more intentional, coordinated look. An anthracite stretch cashmere version, discreetly lined in polka-crest silk, shows Berluti at its best: formal but relaxed, detailed but not showy. Vintage pink cashmere offers a softer alternative, paired with burgundy and brown tailoring that feels considered rather than seasonal.
Leather pieces are particularly strong. The Un Jour jacket appears in a new Fiamma patina, where layered colour creates depth without gloss, while shearling versions add warmth without bulk. The Fly line continues to impress with its reversible lambskin jacket and fluid, lightweight feel, reinforcing Berluti’s push towards practicality with polish.
Accessories echo this evolution. The 1 Jour de Plus bag cleverly rethinks the briefcase with adjustable compartments and supple Seta leather, while updated F088 and Fly bags balance softness, structure and genuine functionality. It’s an offering that exudes confidence whilst maintaining Berluti’s signature restraint; very much in step with how men actually want to dress.
Photography courtesy of Berluti.
