March 17, 2015 |
Balmain has a brand spanking new store on South Audley Street, its first flagship in London. We went for a nosey and sat down for a natter with Olivier Rousteing, the creative director of the Parisian brand, fashion wunderkind, social media phenomenon and best friend of Kim Kardashian and Rihanna.
So did you pick the area for this store?
“For me the area was really important. I wanted to make sure that it was really luxurious. The vision I have for Balmain is about luxury and youth. I believe in youth and I think that this street is young so I’m proud to be part of it.”
How did you get that sense of youth, of hip-hop into the store?
“This store is not obviously hip-hop. You don’t feel the RnB, you just feel the French touch mixed with the warmth and the beauty of London. The clothes are more hip-hop, so I think it’s the mix between the clothes and the store.”
So the launch is tonight?
“Yeah! I’m so happy to have a party with all my girls, some of them from my show. I’m happy to have them coming to support me in my clothes.”
You talk about the Balmain Army and reference Kim Kardashian and Rihanna as the modern supermodels. Who do you see as the male equivalent?
“I don’t think there is male equivalent because women are stronger than men. No-one who can be compared to Kim or Rih – they are stronger than any men. I think they are the balls.”
Do you have any new muses or any rising stars that you have your eye on?
“I think Gigi is going to be a really strong girl. But for me it’s about connection, it’s about power and strength. That’s what I show in my casting – they are all different but they have a common point, they are all really strong girls. That’s why they have become warriors of my army.”
And the men’s collection – there’s a biker element to it.
“The men’s collection is more what I’m going to wear. I’m just playing with what I want to wear. It’s about feeling. Kanye inspires me but different men inspire me too, like soccer players and Harry and Peter Brant. I just love what is surrounding me right now. I love my world and I’m pushing it – that’s what I want.”
You’ve been quoted as saying that Paris isn’t very inspiring any more, what do you think of London?
“London is much more inspiring. I love its diversity. Paris is inspiring too, take Versailles for example. But Versailles was way more inspiring when Kim and Kanye had their wedding there. I think Paris needs something new to make it more beautiful. I’ve heard a journalist say, “Paris is the party and Olivier is the key.” I love being the key and I love welcoming people who bring something new to Paris. On my Instagram I call it “Parih” – the “h” refers to “Rih”. Rihanna makes sense in Paris. And Kim makes sense in Paris and makes it more beautiful, more exciting.”
Obviously you took over the house in 2011 when you were quite young, how do you think you’ve evolved as a designer?
“I think I’ve evolved as a designer as much as I’ve evolved as a person. Four years ago I tried to please too many people and I got a bit lost. Now I think it’s important to please myself. I’m not working with big stylists, I just style the show with my friend. I want to keep it real and keep true to myself.”
You take risks as a designer – you know, your Tetu cover which is quite a sexy photoshoot. I can’t imagine any other designers doing that.
“Because they are old [laughs]! I mean I am not doing that at 60. The reality today is that I can do that – regardless of what people might say – that I can work for luxury but also be naked on a cover.”
You’re a very big proponent of social media, what do you think it’s so important?
“I have one million followers – I don’t think any magazine sells a million copies, in France for example. The reality is that I give access to my fashion in a different way. And I think that social media is the new way of advertising – I have my social media, my Instagram and I don’t pay anything for it. It’s just more real. That’s what I think the world wants right now, more reality and honesty.”
Do you have any selfie tips?
“A really good filter and taking 20 pictures until getting the right selfie.”
Do you have a selfie stick?
“No, I don’t! I just have really good filters. And I try to take pictures when I’m less exhausted, when I’m fresh.”
PFW is over now – what’s next for you and for Balmain?
“We have big projects that are coming – obviously this is one of the big projects. I’m going to take some holiday, I’m going to South Africa and then I’m going to come back and work on my new collection which I’m really excited to work on.”
Balmain’s new store is located at 96 South Audley Street.
By Ted Stansfield
