March 10, 2025 |
Throughout his time at Balenciaga, Demna has used his collections to hold a mirror up to society. In plenty twists and turns, he’s cleverly adapted codes at the heart of the house to reflect styles he sees on the streets, while simultaneously elevating everyday uniforms to terrific new heights. He defined his latest collection as a “a study of standard dress codes, and what it takes to twist standard fits and garments into a fashion context”.
In a pared-back, intimate setting, stripped of the theatrics of the designer’s most well-known shows for the house, Demna sent out classic banker business suits that were crumpled and creased, as if his protagonists had gotten dressed in a panic, or were distressed to look like they were eaten by moths. Throughout, the familiar was elevated. Like the puffer jacket – the garment that unanimously dresses inner-city life – that was repositioned as giant ball gowns or was pulled in tight and given corset-like boning. Or branded sportswear, appearing here via vintage looking track jackets and skinny tracksuits with pseudo football branding courtesy of a collaboration with Puma. Moments of glamour were brilliantly unconventional too, particularly a section of swimsuits that were elongated into slinky evening gowns. Who’d of thought you could wear something that could take you from the lido to the red carpet in a single notion? Only Demna, who once again proves himself as one of fashion’s leading forward-thinkers.
Photography courtesy of Balenciaga.
