Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Using a series of elaborate shoulders and impressive techniques to create extraordinary shapes, Vivienne Westwood’s autumn collection reminds us of the fact that, Vivienne is boss. And it’s to her unparalleled archive, Westwood and her designer husband Andreas Kronthaler turned, just, for their
Junya Watanabe: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Cross Kawaii with Guns ‘n’ Roses, meld prairie dresses with Mod parkas. Junya Watanabe took this contrarian cocktail approach for his AW19 show. It was a mash-up collection that brought opposing fashion and music tribes together. The resulting series of
Celine: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Volte face. Celine impresario, Hedi Slimane has turned from the skinny young rock chicks of his debut collection to a bourgeois woman who is hooked on classics. Hedi wormholed back to a time before Celine was fashion catnip. Before Phoebe, before
Balmain: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Don’t let his puppyish energy and babyfaced good looks fool you. Olivier is one of the most seasoned creative directors in fashion. He’s headed Balmain for almost 9 years (which in the time of 3 year contracts and designer revolving doors
Loewe: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Mr Jonathan Anderson is intent on making Loewe the home of interesting clothes. His collections are deeply thought through, crafted and considered. They speak to a woman who understands aesthetics – she’s no stranger to the gallery for work or pleasure. She wants to
Off-White: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Do you feel the need for speed? Virgil Abloh does, channeling the petrol head world of speedway into his Off-White show. If you are looking for a barometer of modern taste, this is it. Before the show Abloh talked of his own shift
Rick Owens: Ready-To-Wear AW19
It was never going to be a cupcakes and candy kind of show. Rick Owens set out his vision, make-up designed by the cult body modification artist Salvia and inspiration taken from an architect of seventies glam rock, Larry LeGaspi, who designed costumes for
Paco Rabanne: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Who’s making the coolest clothes in Paris? Julien Dossena is making a play for that title with his take on Paco Rabanne. His models slinked down the catwalk in Thirties goddess gowns, cut from silk or meticulously crafted in the house’s signature chainmail. They
Kenzo Present Their See-now-Buy-Now La Collection Memento No.4
Kenzo takes a refreshing approach to its fashion week slot. The house’s designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim look upon each catwalk show as an opportunity to create a bespoke fashion experience. The designers dedicated the show to the Kenzo La Collection
Saint Laurent: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Stepping into the monumental Saint Laurent mirrored box show space was like stepping into a vast new superclub where all the VIP members are vetted on the fierceness of their “don’t sit with me” attitude and their resemblance to Catherine
Maison Margiela: Ready-To-Wear AW19
In his now customary podcast, broadcast ahead of the Maison Margiela show, John Galliano talked (in fabulously fruity vowels), of how the digital decadence in which we are immersed, was prompting a search for authenticity. Those ideas, first explored in his couture show, fed
Dior: Ready-To-Wear AW19
The feminist slogan T-shirt returns! For AW19, Maria Grazia Chiuri revived one of the best selling ideas from her debut Dior show (SS17 for those with goldfish memories). Her first look was a sequel to the “We Should All Be Feminist” tee that has
Giorgio Armani: Ready-To-Wear AW19
The great Italian designer Armani has been in the mood to change things up of late. Last season he held an epic and entertaining Emporio Armani show in the vast “Armani” hangar at Linate airport and rounded it off with
Roberto Cavalli: Ready-To-Wear AW19
The Cavalli woman likes animal print, but how do you give animalia a contemporary spin? Designer, Paul Surridge found the answer. The Brit talked about being inspired by the liberated women of the 1920’s and that eras futurist obsession. He
Versace: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Grunge, glamour supermodels (new and old), bondage, baroque, metal mesh, rock ‘n’ roll, drop dead incredible eveningwear, hip swishing sexiness - this Versace show had it all. The Versace label has been acquired by Capri Holdings Ltd but if anyone was