Maison Margiela: Ready-to-wear AW20
Creative, inventive, unfettered: Isn’t this what a fashion show is supposed or be? John Galliano employs a trickle down creative method. He experiments wildly with new ideas in his artisanal collections and then applies them to the more accessible ready-to-wear.
Mugler: Ready-to-wear AW20
In the post #MeToo era, sex has been largely absent from the catwalks. Conventional sexy codes no longer reflect the lives we live or the values we hold. Rather than grapple with the question of modern sexual expression, many designers
Kenzo: Ready-to-wear AW20
Felipe Oliveira Baptista ushered in a new era at Kenzo. The brightly coloured insta-dressing, with which his Kenzo predecessors defined the last decade, has gone. The designer replaced it with his vision of an urban nomad, dressed to navigate city
Dior: Ready-to-wear AW20
Maria Grazia Chiuri is becoming as well-known for her curation of female artists as she is for her feminist take on Dior’s heritage. After a couture show set against a backdrop of banners created by Judy Chicago, she followed up
Saint Laurent: Ready-to-wear AW20
Saint Laurent is a house that does everything at scale. The vast show space, which looked like a mirrored Borg cube, reflected the twinkling Eiffel Tower back at it. Inside the superstructure, a pristine, white carpeted tunnel formed the catwalk.
Giorgio Armani: Ready-to-wear AW20
It was an emergency response to a serious global situation, but could the Giorgio Armani show be a glimpse of fashion’s future? As Coronavirus fear swept Italy, Giorgio Armani cancelled his fashion show. The shock announcement came at around 2am
Fila: Ready-to-wear AW20
In a vast disused tram shed, Fila created an immersive fashion experience. We left the warmth of the early spring sunshine outside and entered a specially constructed Fila-verse. Models posed in abstract wintery vignettes, or glided past on conveyor belts,
Boss: Ready-to-wear AW20
The Boss show was a big event in a Milan. Taking place in an industrial hangar on the outskirts of the city, guests passed by a specially constructed mirrored selfie room into a huge oval shaped space in which everything
MSGM: Ready-to-wear AW20
A generation of young fashion obsessives have grown up with MSGM. Like a latter day Italian version of Biba, the label has defined the way they dress. Head-to-toe, insta-friendly brights to digital patterns, oversized suiting the white boot phenomenon: MSGM
Bottega Veneta: Ready-to-wear AW20
Our driver nearly lost his license getting us to the Bottega Veneta show – such is the not-to-be-missed urgency of fashion’s hottest ticket. Blink and the season’s most crucial silhouette could pass you by. Bottega is white hot right now.
Versace: Ready-to-wear AW20
The mirrored invite was a clue to the theme of the show: “You are the star!” Versace AW20 was a brilliant tribute to selfie love. Showgoers even had to pass through an “influencer tunnel” to access the venue. This specially-built,
Etro: Ready-to-wear AW20
The nomadic nature of this house is what defines it. Since its inception Etro has taken well travelled inspirations and put them through a luxurious Italian prism. The result is a seductive multiverse of texture, pattern and signature paisley. This
Sportmax: Ready-To-Wear AW20
Fashion and real life sometimes collide and in this stylish sweet-spot you’ll find the things that make getting dressed each morning something to savour. Call it an elevated version of everyday chic. That’s where Sportmax fits in. The Italian brand
Fendi: Ready-to-wear AW20
It was hard and soft, feminine but powerful. The Fendi show, now designed by Silvia Venturini (after Karl Lagerfeld’s 54 year tenure) played with dualities at every level, from materials (mohair was brushed to look like mink) to sexual politics.
Moschino: Ready-to-Wear AW20
“It’s Marie Anime-toinette” said Jeremy Scott of his Moschino show. What a historical romp! “I was playing with this whole idea of a time machine,” he explained. Scott took the historic farthingale of the 1780s but re-did it as a