April 8, 2022 |
Ashish was all smiles when I visited his studio last week. After two years of being stuck in the UK, he was finally able to return to New Dehli, reunited with his parents and his factory which turn his sequin fantasies into reality. It’s been 20 years since the designer found his namesake brand, and he’s spent the past few months scavenging through his own archive. Keen not to do a full on retrospective collection just yet, the designer began redeveloping some of his all-time favourite pieces, confronting a slew of his past season nightmares in the process. “When I go shopping, I want that thing I bought five years ago and loved it, just now improved,” explains the designer. “I don’t think I’ve ever consciously thought about working this way before, but it’s been super interesting.”
Carefully chaotic in its curation, Fair Isles frosted with sequins of the candy coloured variety sit alongside ikat twinsets, and evening gowns that move like liquid. At the collection’s core is three terrific jackets. First, a delightful fringed bomber which takes its Day-Glo hues from a quick sharpie sketch Ashish drew in his studio. This is paired alongside the designer’s take on a classic Chanel tweed, instead made entirely of sequins, right down to its frayed cuffs, and a houndstooth coat sprinkled with shimmering cherries. “This is something I did about 15 years ago and it got nicked twice, so I thought ‘Fuck this, I’m doing it again,'” said the designer.
For Ashish, it’s never about reinventing the wheel each season, nor does he claim to. Instead, the designer refines his craft, developing his signatures and making the sort of clothes you will adore for a lifetime. He’s a joy to our industry.
Photography by Will Sanders.
