January 24, 2015 |
I am, says Natalie, like Bambi. I am proportioned like a fawn, a young deer. In other words, I’m a lanky shit. On most days I despise the fact. But not today. Because today I’m looking at Ann Demeulemeester’s autumn/winter 2015 collection. The house is known for its boys proportioned like fawns. Do they look like lanky shits? No. They look like elegant swans. Elegant, melancholic and romantic swans. It’s been a year now since Demeulemeester left her eponymous brand and her successor, Sebastien Meunier, as he testified yesterday, is starting to add his own sensibility to it. How is his sensibility manifesting itself? Well, his inspirations were personal ones – the art of Arman, of Vermeer too, his play of shadow and light in particular. There were “pops of colour” (as Will likes to call them) too– red and yellow, like saffron. The boys looked like poets, as they always do, but punk poets. Punk poets that this lanky shit wants to dress like. “Good fashion,” as Demeulemeester once said (a quote that captioned a picture from the show posted on Twitter), “is like rock music: all anarchy and revolt.” And it was that spirit, with the individual stroke of Meunier’s brush that we saw.
Photographer: Jason Lloyd-Evans
By Ted Stansfield
