August 30, 2022 |
Costume jewellery becomes pretty putty in the hands of Andreas Kronthaler as he acts as creative director for Vivienne Westwood. Eschewing cutsie cross-bones, outer-space orbs and teddy bears for sophisticated statement earrings that play with theatrical proportions; romantic necklaces which seduce their wearers; and a handmade tiara that evokes Shakespearean codes; Kronthaler’s voluminous new costume jewellery collection comes just in time to keep us on our toes – brava!
At the helm of his wife’s eponymous label, Kronthaler felt struck by the desire to pay tribute to the world of theatre for its pure expressivity. “It’s there where everything is possible,” he says of the stage in the collection notes. “We need space[s] where people [can] express themselves freely without censorship. If you lose that, you don’t have culture.” And indeed, this opulent capsule channels the unconventional halcyon of theatre – in all its eccentricity and performativity – one audacious adornment at a time.
Nothing says ‘I Love You’ like Kronthaler’s Pauletta earrings. They are crochet-inspired chord-constructed pieces, woven, tied and intertwined to form three-dimensional hearts before being encased in brass for an antique feel. Engraved into their push-back fastenings are the joint initials of the creative couple ‘A&V’, animating the heavenly romance that flows between them and bleeding life into Dame Viv’s beloved heart motif.
Elsewhere, Kronthaler combined regal 18th-century silhouettes with contemporary codes for the Leandra earrings and tiara which feature recycled-magazine paper beads in an array of sunset oranges. Pretty pastels also flirt with the rich metallic trimmings and delicate pearl-shaped resin beads to make up the Frances necklace and its twin earrings.
Then, grounded by genuine, faceted, pink-moss agate (or green-moss agate) stones fitted at their core, the show-stopping Rika clip earrings take the notion of drama to a whole new level. Here, recycled sea urchin shell pendants enframe the semi-precious centrepieces while eccentric gold-tone-plated foxtail chains fall from lobe to shoulder, flouncing with the wearer’s every move and effortlessly juxtaposing sensual elements of the natural world with hand-crafted opulence in perfect equilibrium.
“All the world’s a stage – costume jewellery helps you be seen,” says Kronthaler of the jubilant collection. “It’s a celebration. You can make an occasion out of any situation in this jewellery.” Take it from the horse’s mouth, Andreas Kronthaler’s costume jewellery for Vivienne Westwood is a crop of histrionic accessories for any and every character you may choose to play, any day. Let’s get this show on the road!
Photography courtesy of Vivienne Westwood. The Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Collection is available exclusively at Vivienne Westwood Couture, Vivienne Westwood Worlds End Boutiques and online here.
