There’s always a surprise from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. The designer’s thoughtful, playful approach creates talking point moments. The AW24 show began with a group of yodelling performance artists spinning themselves into a bum-slapping frenzy. Then the models stepped out wearing a wardrobe inspired by the Renaissance. Andreas Kronthaler cited laws introduced in Florence to curb salacious dress. You could get arrested if you showed too much flesh… so, that’s what he did.
His models let it all hang out, including Sam Smith who took the catwalk in a cape and a tartan cod piece, which Kronthaler wants to bring back into fashion. His are worn by both genders and come with a little pocket on the front, like a saucy but useful fanny pack. That was the viral fashion moment of the show which leaned into the historic and folkloric. Many of the looks were unisex and worn layered up with cut-outs or tatters revealing something else beneath. There were grand gowns and doublet jackets, tattered dirty denim printed with a pattern taken from 18th century brocades, fantastic mini kilts on boys and girls, mixed in with sporty underpinnings. Always interesting and delightful defiant, Bravo Andreas.
Photography courtesy of Vivienne Westwood.