McQueen was a lesson in sexy Victorian gothicism. Because Victorian gothicism isn’t usually sexy. The Victorians were, after all, the ones who deemed piano legs to be scandalous, and covered them with tiny pantalettes. Sarah did more than forego the use of pantalettes, she dressed her girls in a wardrobe of leather boots (ankle and thigh-high), boob-bearing bodices and bra tops, and naughty negligees. But it wasn’t all sex and seduction. The rose, presumably an English one, was a key theme – reflected in the colour palette of rose pink and red, in the floral motifs embroidered onto organza and the artful raw-edged, ruffled and tiered swathes of satin, lace and tulle. The collection was a credit to the creative genius of Burton and the craftsmanship of the house.
Photographer: Jason Lloyd-Evans
By Ted Stansfield