“It’s the very opposite of last season’s darkness, and all about growth, freshness, springtime — and optimism”, so says Sarah Burton of her Alexander McQueen cruise collection. There’s a slight wisp of a Carmen Miranda seductress to this. Chica Chica Boom Boom. All that’s missing is the the bowl of exotic fruit on her head. It’s all about that hourglass silhouette with a flounce at the hem, embroidered and printed with a bouquet of English flowers, sweet pea, lily of the valley, begonias and holly hock. Its not all sweetness and light though. There’s an underlying toughness here. It comes through in the jackets. Ever so slightly biker, in an army khaki, with chunky silver zips. Or a twee dish looking fabric, complete with leather panels and flounce, belted, but not done up.
By Natalie Dembinska