October 5, 2025 |
For SS26, Pieter Mulier continued to refine the language he’s been building at Alaïa – one rooted in precision, pragmatism and the quiet power of construction. The silhouette is clean and considered, with the opening look pairing a stark, high-necked white tunic with vivid red fringe trousers. The contrast between stillness and movement is immediate – the top sculptural and serene, the fringe in constant, fluid motion.
This play between restraint and release carried through the collection. A deep plum asymmetric dress clung softly to the body, anchored by a sheer sculpted panel across the chest. It felt technical but not cold – one of several pieces that balanced structure with softness.
Materials were direct: cotton, silk, leather. Nothing unnecessary. A black cocoon of layered fringe enveloped the body entirely, transforming texture into silhouette. Even at its most voluminous, the work remained grounded in function and form.
There’s a sense that these are clothes designed to live in, not just to be looked at. Pieces felt ergonomic, often suspended or wrapped in ways that revealed and redefined the body underneath.
Rather than statement-making for its own sake, SS26 continued Alaïa’s quiet evolution – clothes that feel intentional, tactile and built to last beyond a single season.
Photography courtesy of Alaia.
