September 17, 2023 |
It was a trip to the British Library for Priya Ahluwalia’s SS24 show. The designer has been on a journey of “rediscovery” on the lead up to this collection. She’s immersed herself in periods of intense research, burying her head in texts on social justice movements and a myriad of creative disciplines. She decided to call her collection Acknowledgement: a tribute to “makers, doers and thinkers” who’ve been written out of Western history books.
Be it Algerian artist Baya Mahieddine (a key inspiration of Picasso), Bollywood star Madhubala (one of India’s highest-earning entertainers in the 1960s) or drag queen and LGBTQ+ liberation activist, Marsha P. Johnson, each changemaker and forward-thinker played a part in shaping Ahluwalia’s design dialogue this season. The age-old expression of giving someone their flowers was sartorially communicated via laser-etched florals that sprouted across ISKO denim sets, as well as a series of intarsia knits. Elsewhere, Ahluwalia doubled down on the jacquard tailoring and retro-inspired sportswear which has become her signature, whilst continuing to explore eveningwear; a tangerine cowl neck frock that closed the show stood out. It was a striking salute to unsung heroes, beautifully-done.
Photography courtesy of Ahluwalia.
