February 18, 2024 |
Priya Ahluwalia is no stranger to dipping into the rich cultural pot of her Nigerian and Indian heritage to inform her collections. Her AW24 outing continued this mode of creativity, but fortified it, and reimagined it in the context of the mystical, mythological and imaginary. Looking back at African and Indian cautionary scripture that she had encountered during her formative years, The Prince Who Wanted the Moon and How the Leopard Got His Spots in particular, were her point of departure.
Called Reveries, she dedicated the collection to “the trading of wisdom found in the old Indian and Nigerian folklore and fairytales.” Drawing inspiration from the silhouettes found in each respective country’s traditional styles of dress, draping was a particular focus. So was denim, of which the dresses and jeans were born from a partnership with Levi’s. Prints referenced the body painting traditions of Igbo peoples, also depicting the motifs found in the illustrative pages of folkloric documentations, such as trees, birds, and moon and crown, which were injected into lush merino knits. Atop a few of the model’s heads sat bespoke headpieces created in collaboration with Ett Hem London. These featured faux foliage and florals, challenging “the classical compositions of traditional floristry through form and function” as they made their enchanting promenade through Central Hall Westminster and its vast Victorian architecture. There were Choli tops and knit dresses with ovular cutouts, hooded blouses, tailored trousers and zipped jackets, all in evocative shades of deep red, orange, green, deep aubergine and azure. Adorning looks were gems, pearls and sequins in almond-like formations, adding a touch of glamour to the outing. It was splendid, a “singular version of an Ahluwalia fairytale”, written by fantastical clothing.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
